Jordan - Wadi Rum
If you have a romantic heart and an adventurous spirit, then you
have to ride an Arab horse across the desert of Wadi Rum at
least once in your lifetime.
Wadi Rum, in the far south of Jordan, is also known as Valley of
the Moon. It is an enchanting place where massive rocky outcrops
rise majestically out of the desert floor. The rocks have the
appearance of melting chocolate and the colours in the sandstone
are like a muted earthy rainbow. It is a landscape like no other.
I have ridden twice now in Wadi Rum with Equitour
Worldwide Riding Holidays Both trips were spectacular and
different. I met old friends and made new. That is the wonderful
thing about horses - they bring people together who enjoy a
challenge whatever their age.
Initially I was anxious about my riding ability and crossing the
sort of terrain described in the brochure. I remember on the
first trip, the briefing session was held in a fabulous Bedouin
style restaurant in the capital Amman. I thought that I was the
most inexperienced rider of the whole group and asked Ishmael,
who owns the local tour company out there, to make sure that I
had a very quiet horse.
The next day we left Amman and set off in a mini bus down the
Desert Highway, which is the main motorway through Jordan, from
Syria to Saudi Arabia. The journey was full of sights new to our
Western eyes. We passed convoys of colourful trucks transporting
goods to Saudi and at the side of the highway in the scrubby
desert were small settlements of concrete very basic single
storey dwellings. We could see children running around amongst
the goats and donkeys and camels. We passed a local farmer with
a camel sitting calmly in the back of his 4WD Pickup. Our driver
waved to him and he pulled in at the side of the road for us
take photos of his strange and unconcerned passenger. We stopped
at a roadside tourist shop to buy typical Arab scarves known as
kufeyyas, which would prove indispensable against the harsh sun
and later we picked up some dates and huge blocks of ice from a
local supermarket.
We arrived at the edge of Wadi Rum and the horses were waiting
for us. I looked at them nervously wondering which one would be
mine and hoping it would be very quiet. The tack was a curious
affair of blankets and pads covered in fabric your Grandmother
once had on her settee, plus the saddle and a very basic bridle.
We were told to sit with legs well forward and reins held high
in one hand. The horses responded to body movement and very
light neck reining. They jogged in the gait typical of their
breed, which took a bit of getting used to. My mare was very
quiet and didn't jog but liked to roll in the soft sand without
any warning. When we had got used to our horses and the style of
riding, we quickened the pace. Just a shake of the reins and we
were cantering fast across the desert floor, weaving in and out
of the desert broom bushes. It was exhilarating. My horsemanship
fears soon disappeared and by the end of the week, I had
progressed from my quiet mare to one of the liveliest horses on
the trip.
Each day was different as we rode around the desert through deep
red rock canyons and ascended the airy heights of enormous
rippled dunes. We stood on the very edge and marveled at the
scenery below. We saw the Seven Pillars of Wisdom made famous by
T.E Lawrence; we found secret water springs used only by the
Bedouin; we passed camel trains and goat herders; we saw rock
paintings thousands of years old. Only very occasionally did we
see tourists but most of the time we were on our own. The horses
were game and lively and gave the whole journey a sense of
gaiety. When we came to a stretch of flat desert, we galloped
all together in one long row, one arm raised like Arab warriors
charging.
Once we spied a Bedouin tent complete with Toyota and camels in
the distance. One of the crew phoned the sheik on his mobile and
we were invited over for coffee in his tent. We asked if we
could meet the women of the tribe and the female riders only
were allowed into their separate part of the tent. We
communicated with the women in sign language and by drawing
pictures and realized that we had the same wants and needs
whatever culture we come from. I felt that we had witnessed
something very special that the normal tourist doesn't usually
see. At the end of each long day in the saddle, when we were
tired and hungry, the cook and crew had already set up camp. I
was always amazed by the places they found for us to spend the
night. The crew consisted of a very good cook and assistant,
horse handlers, maybe a local vet and drivers. There were
normally about two or three 4WD pickup trucks, which carried
food and water for the horses, for the riders and also all our
bags and camping equipment. They stayed discreetly out of the
way when we were riding unless needed for water etc and they
went on ahead to find resting places and overnight campsites.
Sometimes a rider decided a rest was needed and so swopped their
horse for a seat in one of the trucks.
Camping was the most wonderful fun and I was surprised at how
everyone forgot about their complex lives at home and wanted to
stay in the desert forever with few or little possessions. We
were fed ample freshly cooked food that was delicious and wine,
beer and soft drinks were provided. We all sat around the fire
exchanging stories and learning about the Bedouin way of life.
We heard the men singing love songs to the horses to keep them
calm. One night, members of a local tribe visited us and we had
a really enjoyable and spontaneous evening. We found the
Bedouins to be a very proud and hospitable race with a great
sense of humour.
On each trip, the crew made us a makeshift shower so everyone
could have a thorough wash. I remember how wonderful it was to
feel clean and refreshed. I sat on a high rocky ledge above the
horses with a can of cold lager to watch the sun go down and the
colours of the desert change.
Although tents were provided, most of us liked to put our
sleeping bags on the rocks or just on the lovely soft sand. I
stayed on my high rocky ledge and lay there watching the bright
stars shooting across the sky and feeling completely at one with
the mysterious nature of Wadi Rum. At the end of the second trip
I sadly said goodbye to my horse and the crew at the edge of the
desert. We were taken by minibus to our luxury five star Hotel
in Petra near to the famous Nabatean city. I strode into the
reception area with its marble floors and Persian rugs, feeling
hot and sweaty and covered in red dust. The staff did not bat an
eyelid. That night I rolled over and fell out of my king size
bed because I had got so used to sleeping on the ground.
The next morning a guided tour of Petra had been arranged for
us. I spent the whole day there and then realized I was late for
an appointment at the famous Brooke Animal Hospital, near the
entrance. There was no time to walk so I hired a camel and
trotted fast through the ancient city with the owner running
behind me. When the camel reached the Treasury I had to leave it
but was then given a horse to ride at top speed to the hospital.
I just made it in time to have a tour with the Head Vet and give
a donation to the charity. Indiana Jones eat your heart out!
The next day a few of us hired a car and driver and were taken
down to the famous port of Aqaba on the Red Sea. It has one of
the finest corral reefs in the world and we spent our last day,
before the flight home, snorkeling and relaxing on the beach. It
was a fitting end to a fantastic holiday.
My riding trip to Jordan was over but will never be forgotten.
And hopefully, there will always be another adventure waiting
for me out there in the desert.
Visit Jordan with Equitour Worldwide Riding Holidays once and
you will be enchanted. Visit a second time and you will be
welcomed like an old friend.