How to install glass block panel systems for bathroom

How to install glass blocks atop the half-wall separating the shower and bath. Materials: Glass blocks Spacers (50% more than the number of glass blocks) Panel anchors Expansion strips Panel reinforcing Mortar or mortar components components (White Portland cement; white sand and powdered hydrated lime) Electric drill Wood screws and plugs Small trowel Levels - one small and one 2' or longer Caulking gun, sealant Sponge or polyfoam paint brush Striking tool (for 1/4" mortar joints) Cloth or sponge for clean-up advertisement Panel anchors must now be installed along the jambs and head in order to secure the glass block wall to the frame (anchors will eventually be embedded into the mortar joint). Panel anchors are usually supplied in 24" lengths and can be cut into two anchors, 12" long. They should be bent to produce both a short and a long arm. Screw the short arms of the anchors to the jambs and head after every third 6"block (anchors 18" apart), and after every second 8" or 12" block (anchors 16" and 24" apart, respectively). Use two screws per anchor. If you are attaching to tile or masonry, screw plugs should be used. If using white pre-mix glass block mortar, follow instructions on premixed mortar bag, which should say to add cool water slowly until you achieve a consistency of frosting. Mixed mortar should be of a consistency that will allow it to stick to the edge of the glass block when the block is turned 90?. It's best to test the mortar on the block, and add water or mortar to the mix as needed. Preparing mortar is an important step. If you have ever laid brick or concrete block, be aware that glass block are non-absorbent and, accordingly, the mortar must be much less moist. The consistency should be spreadable, but not dry to the point of separating or crumbling. Mix what you think you'll use in about an hour. If you want to mix your own mortar, follow this recipe: 1 Part White Portland Cement, 1/2 Part Lime, 4 Parts White Sand. Caution: Freshly mixed mortar may cause skin irritation. Avoid direct contact where possible and wash exposed skin areas promptly with water. If any gets into eyes, rinse immediately with water and seek prompt medical attention. To install the first course of glass blocks, first use the trowel to apply a full mortar bed to the sill. Enough mortar should be used so that a 1/4" joint will remain when the block are in place. After the block is positioned on the mortared sill, set the next block. Apply approximately 3/8 to 1/2-inch of mortar to the vertical edge that will be contacting the first block. Then insert a spacer between the two at the top of the joint (figure A). Make certain that it is seated tightly against the spacer by pushing the block snugly into place. This seating check should be done for all the blocks. Continue the first course by repeating the above steps for each block, periodically checking that with a level that the block are level and plumb (figure B) in placement. If not, adjust accordingly before proceeding to the next course. Using a damp sponge or polyfoam brush, press back into the joints any mortar that oozed out. No voids should remain in the joints. Apply mortar to the top of the course of block just laid. Again, sufficient mortar should be used so that a 1/4" joint will remain when the next course is in place. Spread and smooth the mortar, but take care to keep the cross legs of the spacers as free of mortar as possible. This will ensure that the following course of block sits flat on the spacers. After the top course has been placed, remove excess mortar from block faces using damp sponge or cloth. Be sure to rinse frequently; do not use abrasive products for this cleanup. Be careful not to let any mortar on the faces totally dry before attempting to remove. At this point the block will still have a dry film over them which will be cleaned off later. At the top of the second or third course (depending on block size being used) you will encounter the first anchor. The top edge of the block with spacer should fit just under this anchor. Then proceed as before, simply laying mortar right on top of the anchor. After the joint mortar has set up for approximately one hour, smooth all joints using a striking tool to remove excess mortar and produce a clean, professional-looking job. This smoothing procedure also compacts the mortar to create a moisture-proof seal. Striking should leave all joints completely filled with mortar. Tip: It's recommended that in bathroom applications, mortar joints should be coated with a clear sealer (sandy joint grade) for mold and mildew protection. One or two hours after striking, wipe the block faces with a soft, clean cloth to remove any remaining film. Let the wall set for 24 hours before doing any additional work in the same area or using your tub or shower in the area. To maintain, wipe occasionally with a damp, soft cloth on interior panels and a hosing on exterior panels is a good idea. Avoid abrasive cleaners.