The Lobster's Tale: Through the Eyes of a Cape Cod Lobsterman

Once upon a time if Cape Codders wanted a grand lobster feast they merely walked down to the shore, waded in and plucked all they could carry by the armload. In fact, the Pilgrim Miles Standish reported that, after a good nor'easter, lobsters could be found in piles eighteen inches deep at the water's edge and gathered without anyone even getting their toes wet. Homarus Americanus, alternatively known as the New England, Maine, or Atlantic lobster, once thrived in such profundity here on Cape Cod that the colonists actually used them, not as food, but as fertilizer for their crops or as bait for their fish hooks. As sustenance, lobster was little more than "poverty food," fit only for feeding indentured servants, slaves, children or cows, in that order. Here in Massachusetts, the servants did finally rebel and won an amendment to their contracts- No longer would they be forced to eat lobster more than three times a week. Today of course, the lobster ranks as the king of all summer foods, more a celebration than a meal. For lobster-lovers a lazy summer day baking at the beach is merely prelude to the height of indulgence- tying on the lobster bib, unwrapping the special forks, picks, and claw-cracker, and consulting the place mat with its numbers outlining, step-by-step, how to dismember your lobster to extract its full contents. We New Englanders so love the lobster that Logan Airport has its own lobster pool, whose feisty inhabitants wait to be shipped to all points of the globe by air express. It was not always so. In fact there is little about the history of this pugnacious crustacean that would predict its exclusive rise to popularity in the American diet today. The History On a journey to the Cape guided by Squanto on September 18, 1621, Miles Standish was struck by the omnipresent hordes of lobsters. He found "savages seeking lobsters" in Barnstable, and, at daybreak the following morning in Nauset Harbor, he moved to acquire some of his own: "There we found many lobsters that had been gathered together by the savages, which we made ready under a cliff. The captain set two sentinels behind the cliff to the landward to secure the shallop, and taking a guide with him and four of our company, went to seek the inhabitants; where they met a woman coming for her lobsters, they told her of them, and contented her for them." The potential for the creature in the American diet was noted not only here on Cape Cod, of course, but all along the New England coast. In June 1605 Captain George Waymouth, on a trip to Maine, was also struck by the teeming populations of American Lobster, a close cousin to the smaller Spiny lobster of Europe: "And towards night we drew with a small net of twenty fathoms very nigh the shore; we got about thirty very good and great lobsters... which I omit not to report, because it sheweth how great a profit the fishing would be." Nevertheless, lobstering as an industry began, not in Maine, but right here on Cape Cod. Populations were so high that the typical lobster went for a mere two or three cents each. In fact, lobstermen on Monomoy's Whitewash Village are said to have made a decent living at a penny apiece. The crustaceans grew to such size that they were often reported up to five and six feet long in the markets of Boston. One gargantua reached a weight of nearly forty-five pounds. Unlike other kinds of fish, lobster must be shipped alive. Uncooked dead lobsters develop poisonous toxins that will sicken or possibly kill anyone who eats them. Therefore the lobster industry, as we know it today, did not become possible until the early nineteenth century with the development of lobster smacks, sailing vessels with seawater tanks in their hold. By 1840 Provincetown had five of these smacks devoted full-time to shipping lobsters between the Cape and New York City. The industry was given further boosts by the development of canning factories in New England in the 1840s, and also by the coming of the railroad and improved methods of preserving food with ice. Cape Cod Today At Chatham Harbor on a shimmering summer day, with little wind and no sea running, the picturesque view of lobstermen tending their colorful pots close to shore conjures up an ideal way of life. Even within the fishing industry itself, lobstering is enviously referred to by fellow longliners and gillnetters as an easy "gentleman" fishery. "Well, we are lucky here in Chatham," says 30 year-old Chatham native and lobsterman Ben Bergquist. "A lot of the best fishing is just 8 miles from shore and, generally all over the Cape, we have very good lobster habitat with good bottom -- all within twenty-five miles. It is a fun fishery when it's good, but it's like anything else-- when it's not going well, it's absolutely miserable, and persistence counts for everything. Everybody who makes money from the ocean has to work to make that money. It's all up to you if you want to get out of bed in the morning and work or not, no matter what the fishery, and lobstering is no different." In a fishery plagued annually by predictions of crashing lobster stocks, Bergquist, who began helping his father at the age of eight and took over the boat, the Benjo, in 1996, says that for himself every year has gotten better. Though he has a Bachelors degree in Environmental Science and the option for a more traditional career on-shore, he sees a strong future for himself in lobstering. With a young wife, two daughters aged one and four, a mortgage, and a sizeable investment in gear, he has found that hard work and perseverance has paid off just like any other business. "Well, for sure, the successful days are averaged by an equal amount of hard-luck.