It is night. Not just any night, but "bush" night which means the only light is the flailing licks of fire flames and the steady, faint glow of the few kerosene lamps around the camp. We sip our chai (tea) and kahaua (coffee) to warm our insides against the wind that sweeps across the Simanjiro plains as our Maasai companions, Alterere and Leiyo, hurry us on our way