Drakensberg tour

This Drakensberg story is one of retreat, beauty, relaxation and good
eating. The drive towards the Drakensberg Mountains swept over the undulating
foothills down side-roads that snake along meandering countryside to our first
destination Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse. Cleopatra is tucked away in the
beautiful Kamberg valley in the Drakensberg Mountains, it is a gourmet getaway
where attention to detail is evident everywhere. The dining room and lounge are
extended over a trout-filled dam that looks out across the water to the stunning
mountains of the Southern Berg. It is a magical place - a secluded luxury
hideaway where the most important factor is not to come here if you are on a
diet!

The build up to dinner was an event in itself with all the guests meeting at
7pm for drinks and given an entertaining, detailed account of the gourmet meal
that was to follow by Richard the chef and owner. Everything is hand prepared on
the premises, some of the sauces (the highlight of most plates) take up to three
days in creation. It's three fabulous starters each, in our case a plate of
meltingly succulent scallops, then a rich, baked butternut soup with a dollop of
creamy pesto and a plate of Mozambican king prawns. A small freshening sorbet
provided Richard the time for final preparations of the main course, an
elaborate plate of choice lamb cuts on rosti with three different chutneys, and
rounded off with a rich chocolate concoction, perfectly offset by homemade
orange-infused vanilla ice cream.

Breakfast the next morning followed in a similar style and although difficult
to leave we knew that we had to walk some of this food off or we would never
make the next meal. That food was possibly the best I have ever eaten but
seriously doubt having survived 2 days of this non stop eating.

Kamberg hosts a site of Bushman rock art with relative easy access, a
stunning walk including a waterfall, and particularly well preserved examples of
Bushman paintings. It is here that the "Rosetta Stone" of San art
first provided archaeologists with the key to interpreting the symbolism of the
paintings as spiritual in content - showing how hunters gained power from the
animals that they killed. Its all professionally explained by guides and
although I had seen these paintings before I was again moved.

The road to our next stop the Antbear turned out to be just a little hop away
mainly because Richard had guided us via the back roads. The Antbear Guest House
is one of those seldom found gems hidden away in a network of rural roads in the
Drakensberg foothills. The little white washed farmhouse has been converted into
a place of artistic elegance. It is full of hand sculptured wooden furniture, a
labor of Conny and Andrews love. Andrew greeted us dressed in very flamboyantly
African dress and welcomed us with a cup of tea. He is a humorous character with
a passion for entertaining, conversation and alternative living.

Andrew is a dab hand in the kitchen too. The food is very different to that
of Cleopatra definitely not as rich but no less of an experience. Supper was the
best Indian food I have ever eaten with a selection of curries, papdams, onion
badjis, sambals and naan bread to boot. Andrew quite likes the company in the
kitchen and its really different watching this kind of cooking. Its like a
circus as he casually juggles the egg turner or adds a handfull of spice to some
frying onions. The hosts eat with the guests at a single table with candle
chandeliers and a fireplace. Its very welcoming indeed. For desert Andrew
whipped up caramelized cape gooseberries in whiskey with hint of time. Why the
Antbear is so affordable is a bit of a mystery me and till today the Antbear is
my favourite guesthouse anywhere.

Armed with Conny