Choosing Embroidery Thread
Selecting the right type of threads for any embroidery work is
important because the color and texture of the design, and
eventually the look of the final product depend on the material
and type of thread used. There's a wide variety of embroidery
thread to choose from, so take your time to decide what type or
combination should be best for the design you have in mind. More
importantly, thread selections should be based on Sewability,
Seam Performance and Appearance, Availability and Cost.
Types:
1. Rayon: This type of thread has a great sheen, and so the best
looking embroidery designs are stitched with it. Rayon threads
can range from combinations of two or more colors twisted
together thereby forming a single strand, to one solid color
strand. They are widely available, mostly in standard 40 wt. and
30 wt. Even though Rayon is the most popular type, it's not very
sturdy because of its thinness.
2. Polyester: Polyester thread is more durable than Rayon but it
is not as attractive. However, this type of embroidery thread
hardly shrinks or fades, and if combined with Rayon, the effect
they provide is nearly indistinguishable. It is also cheaper
than Rayon thread.
3. Cotton: Cotton thread allows for a wide range of tension
adjustments because of its texture. It has a nice sheen, is
quite sturdy (though finer threads above 50 wt. are not), and
typically used for machine embroidery.
4. Silk: Silk embroidery thread hardly breaks and has its own
unique, and probably the best sheen. Threads come in various
sizes but their availability is low so they are mostly used for
luxury fabrics.
5. Metallic Thread: This type of thread has a core wrapped with
a metal foil which may be coated with silver alloy, and color is
added to this foil with a polyester film which may also be
applied as an undercoating. Metallic thread is one of the most
durable available on the market.
6. Mylar Thread: Plies of film are combined into a layer, cut
into slices to create Mylar threads. They are durable but may
break under high-speed sewing. One unique color feature is
holographic hue, which picks up and reflects light or color from
other surrounding objects. This really enhances the color and
design of the embroidery.
7. Special-effect: Like the name suggests, this type of thread
can be used to create different design effects, such as
crewel-like effect. Some of the special effect threads change
colors under sunlight, or may glow in the dark.
Quality Evaluation:
1. Tensile Strength: The tensile strength of an embroidery
thread can be tested by sawing a suspended strand with another
strand back and forth until the first strand breaks. The faster
it breaks, the lower the strength and quality of that particular
thread type.
2. Elongation: A good thread must have the right amount of
stretch. Take a piece of the thread and stretch it till it
breaks. The strand should neither break too quickly nor stretch
for too long.
3. Sheen: The luster and quality of the sheen can be tested by
studying the color and design of a finished embroidery product.