The Ride Of Their Life - The Grand Canyon Mule Experience -
(part 2 - The 2 Day Trip)
Indian Garden is where the riders who are overnighting at
Phantom Ranch separate from the day riders and embark on their
own private adventure. Although they have now come half the
distance from the South Rim to Phantom Ranch, a quick look back
up at the rim will verifiy that they have descended two thirds
of the total altitude change from the mule corral to the canyon
bottom. Most of them will take more than a quick look, however,
because from Indian Garden it is difficult to see how that
canyon wall could possibly be traveled. But they did it, and
they will all feel some degree of pride in their accomplishment.
The hard part is over.
The gently sloping trail now follows Garden Creek as it wanders
down its narrow channel toward the canyon bottom. It is picture
postcard beautiful. The cottonwood and willow trees, the lush
riparian vegetation, and the peaceful sound of crystal clear
flowing water give them the feeling that a new world has been
entered. Considering themselves advanced beyond novice rider
status by now, they are secure and comfortable in the saddle and
most of the them will truly relax and enjoy the ride. Whereas it
is common to see bighorn sheep at the top of the trail in the
morning, deer are what they are likely to see down here. Being
unaccustomed to any threat from humans, the animals in the
canyon will simply glance up and then go on about their
business. This will be a photo opp for those riders who have
never before seen a deer in the wild.
They will all be looking to the left as Garden Creek separates
itself from the trail, tumbling rapidly downward and
disappearing quickly into a small rocky gorge. As they pass,
their attention will again focus forward and it will be mere
seconds before they realize that there is nothing but open air
in front of them. Hello Devil's Corkscrew! As they round a sharp
bend they will find themselves on the side of a canyon wall, on
a narrow ledge, staring down a near vertical drop-off to the
valley floor. A valley floor which everyone of them will say is
at least a thousand feet below, in a canyon which would be
impressive in its own right anywhere but here. A degree of
anxiety will return and some will later recall this as the most
frightening part of the entire trail. Even Garden Creek had the
good sense to detour before it came to this.
At the bottom of Devil's Corkscrew they will find friendlier
ground, again following along the creek as it gently slopes
toward its final approach to the river. The wrangler will
probably verify that the Colorado River is not far ahead and
comfort them with the assurance that the trail plans no more
devilish surprises. A few general comments will be heard and
they will relax again, now the hard part is over.
The Bright Angel Trail breaks through a small gorge and affords
its first view of the Colorado River only when they are
literally at the river. There it is, right in front of them.
Most of the riders will think it is bigger than it looked in the
pictures. All of them will be awed at the energy and power it
emanates, and this will be the high point in some memories. As
they turn to amble along the comfortable River Trail at the
water's edge, if they hadn't realized it before, they will now,
this is the ride of their life.
Suddenly, exclamations will be heard from the riders in front as
the trail rounds a knoll. The Silver Bridge across the river can
be seen in the distance, stretching from canyon wall to canyon
wall. It is a long, high suspension bridge, and some will
probably wonder how they could ever build it in such a remote
location. They know this isn't their route, but they can't help
but say something when they first see it. As they approach the
bridge, it is even longer and taller than it first looked, and
the large steel mesh floor allows the river torrent to be seen
clearly beneath one's feet. Woof ! A long ways beneath one's
feet! As they file by the end of the bridge, most will be glad
they are not crossing the river here, but now the more forward
thinking riders will be wondering what the next bridge has to
offer, and may even ask their wrangler as much.
As they continue to follow the River Trail to the bridge on the
Kaibab Trail, they will begin to realize that they are climbing
back up, and that once again the trail has become a narrow ledge
on the side of a solid rock canyon wall with a vertical drop
that is difficult to ignore. While it may be only a few hundred
feet to the bottom this time, the sights and sounds of the
powerful Colorado River directly below them add yet another
sensation to be remembered.
As they approach the dark entrance to the tunnel, it more
resembles a cave than a passage through the rock. Like a giant
tube, it curves around just enough to obscure visible light from
the other end. Somebody will probably make scary noises in the
dim tunnel. The other end of the tunnel is a vertical rock wall
with the Kaibab Bridge connected directly to it. One step on the
solid rock tunnel floor, the next step on the suspended bridge,
with the river directly below them. A long way below them. Is
there no end to this adventure? At least this bridge has solid
matting on the floor, which comforts mules and riders alike.
Now the hard part really is over. Historic and rustic Phantom
Ranch awaits them just up the trail in yet another cozy,
cottonwood shaded oasis. After dismounting, the cantina will be
the first place the riders hobble to. The cantina is comfortable
and inviting and, after they check in, they will sip on cold
drinks and begin to share their impressive recollections. These
will be private exchanges and they will be quite certain that no
outsider could fully appreciate their descriptions. But no
matter the beauty they have seen or the magnitude of their
adventure, they will be happy to get out of the saddle. Some
will probably already be concerned about the probability of
discomfort in the morning, on the long ride out of the canyon.
It won't be as bad as they may fear.
Phantom Ranch is nestled in a small draw on the North side of
the Colorado River, where the Bright Angel Creek has decided to
join the big river . The people are friendly, the food is
excellent, and the beds are conducive to deep sleep. The wake up
call will come too early for most, but their excitement will
begin to rekindle as they step out into the cool morning air. If
they can resist overeating the five star breakfast provided to
them in the cantina, they will be cheerful and ready for
whatever comes. The nervous exuberance of yesterday will be
absent today, they are old hands now. When they arrive at the
mule corral, few of them will realize that the wrangler has been
at work since before daylight rounding up, feeding, and saddling
the mules. There will be a few comments as their backsides hit
the saddle, but their enthusiasm is again high .
Back across the Kaibab Bridge, back through the tunnel, past the
River Trail cutoff, and out of the secluded lower canyon river
gorge they climb. Riding uphill is different than riding
downhill and most of the riders will find it easier. The red
clay trail spirals up steeply in the shade of the early morning,
as if to escape the perils of the river as soon as possible.
Even so, as the riders will now trust their equestrian skills,
it will be a quiet ride up this section of the trail to the rest
stop on the edge of the first plateau. From here on, however,
the Kaibab Trail will offer a completely unique and superior
viewing experience. They are entering camera country.
With the trail now traveling along ridge tops most of the way,
the views available to the riders will make them feel that they
are on top of the world. Every day, even every hour of the day,
the hues and tints across the vast canyon can change. The
distant earthtones and pastel colors will transform as they
climb, always masking the true rugged nature of the canyon. Each
time the trail brings them to a higher plateau, the panoramic
vistas are almost indescribable. Each time the river comes into
view, it will be farther down and once more begin to resemble a
painting rather than reality. The magnitude of the canyon will
come back into focus and they will marvel aloud that, only a few
hours ago, they were a part of that painting.
It is a near certainty that some of the hikers they pass will be
physically stressed. The Kaibab Trail is shorter than the Bright
Angel Trail and has more elevation gain. Being steeper, having
no fresh water sources, and having precious few shaded rest
areas usually catches the uneducated by surprise. They have
found that the canyon caters to no one. By now, the riders will
be taking for granted the strength, endurance, and
trustworthiness of the animals they are riding. The sight of
struggling hikers may remind them of their good fortune and
prompt a few friendly expressions of gratitude to the mule that
has become their friend. A friend who will be indelible in their
memories.
As they approach the South Rim near Yaki Point, they will again
be tired and somewhat subdued. Overall, the ride today has been
quieter and more serene than yesterday. Then, one last time, the
canyon will remind them of its superiority, just before it
releases them. Near the top, the trail will again force them
through a series of switchbacks, climbing steeply up the
seemingly vertical rock wall. Once again displaying the
characteristics of height and distance which make this a
recognized wonder of the world and which caused them so much
anxiety yesterday.
One final reminder to them that this is The Grand Canyon. One
final verification, as if they needed it, that they have
experienced the ride of their life.