Horse Riding Holiday in Iceland

There's something extremely heart wrenching about being sung to. I wonder how many others were thinking this as the staff of Ishestar Horse Treks stood up and belted out a rousing song in Icelandic about riding across the highlands. It's day four of a very special riding holiday. Along with 19 other riders of mixed nationalities, I'm making an epic journey across the centre of Iceland, travelling from South to North covering 238 kilometers of inhospitable terrain.

Covering between 25 and 50 kilometers a day over rugged terrain at a fairly constant trot, this is a ride for experienced riders who are used to long periods in the saddle. Accommodation is in mountain huts and showers are few. This is a chance to say goodbye to civilisation and convene with the Icelandic nature, the elements and of course, the wonderful Icelandic horses.

On the first day, our guide Lola issues us with thick orange rain gear, instructs us how to tack up the Icelandic way and explains her commands for mounting and dismounting. She explains that we will ride in a line. Not because this is any nose to tail ride, quite the opposite, each horse is very responsive and individual. But the terrain is so rocky in many places that it's necessary to follow a single soft track that has been worn with time. Also the horses get excited by the herd and riding single file has a calming influence.

As we set off with the rain bucketing down and a mist descending, I had the feeling we'd inadvertently signed up for an endurance test. I was right in that the ride was a challenge, Mother Nature showed us her full range of tricks as the week progressed and we had more than our fair share of wind and rain. But as the days went by I also knew we would all leave stronger and enriched by our experience.

The Icelandic horses are just wonderful, such characters, really great dispositions and so endearing. We changed horses at least once, sometimes twice every day, and travelled with a herd. In total we had 96 horses with us for 20 guests! The herd travelled either in front or behind us and I could never tire of watching them arrive or depart from our lunch spot or a midway grazing spot. Though little over 14hh, these little horses ride a lot bigger than they are and carry heavier riders with ease. Of all the horses I rode I had two favourites, Gudmunder, a little affectionate bay with a light mouth and easy tolt and Heimir, a dun who was a little stockier and had such a smooth trot it was hardly necessary to tolt at all.

For the most part the terrain was rugged, with a moonscape of rocks as far as the eye could see, then it would give way to soft trails and deep spongy grass. We'd stop and graze the horses whenever we reached a green spot, dismounting to rest their backs. It was always a pleasure to watch them graze and see the herd arrive or depart. For three days the large glaciers of Langj