Spain's Gateway to Morocco: Algeciras
Stretching nearly to Gibraltar, Algeciras has long been an
important port in Spain. It's a popular crossroads for Moroccan
workers on the way to and from France, Holland, and Belgium.
Partly for this reason, there's a strong Arab flavor to the
city; many signs are in Arabic, and you'll find excellent tea
shops specializing in Moroccan mint teas. It's not a pretty
city, but it's an almost fiercely individual one with a unique
and vibrant personality. The restaurants here tend to be both
excellent and inexpensive, and many have perfect views of the
Rock of Gibraltar. And if you stroll the streets, you'll find a
number of quiet parks and plazas out of sight of the bustling
city.
The most attractive part of Algeciras, however, is that there
are eight ferry crossings every day to Tangier and Morocco --
Casablanca, anyone? It's also the place to catch a train to
Ronda, traversing some of the loveliest and most varied terrain
in Andalucia, going through the Pueblos Blancos and the
surrounding area.
No doubt due to its deep port and its location, so close to
Africa, Algeciras was the first Spanish town taken by the Moors
in 711. It was later retaken by Alfonso XI of Castile in 1344,
but destroyed by the Moors in 1368 and not rebuilt until 1760,
56 years after it had been refounded by Spanish refugees from
Gibraltar. As a result, it doesn't have architecture of the same
antiquity as many of the cities in Andalucia.
Nevertheless, Algeciras has class. Kings, queens, and statesmen
like Churchill and Roosevelt have stayed at its Hotel Reina
Cristina. And though visiting dignitaries today are more likely
to fly over than stay in Algeciras, its tourist industry is
growing.
What to Do
Algeciras has 23 kilometers of beach, and though some are given
over to industrial use, there are still several very nice ones
such as the Rinconcillo, San Garcia, and Getares. The Church of
Nuestra Senora de la Palma and the Capilla de Nuestra Senora de
Europa are nice to visit, thought they aren't as venerable or
remarkable as many similar structures in other Andalucian towns.
You can also hike through Los Alcornocales, an extensive and
beautiful nature reserve nearby.
Like most Andalucian towns, Algeciras has excellent festivals,
and holds them frequently. (In Andalucia, more than 3000 fiestas
are celebrated each year!) The main festivals in Algeciras are
the Arrastre de Latas, or Three Kings, the Fiesta de Los Reyes,
Las Adas, La Chorizada, Carnival, and Tosantos (All Saints Day).
The Arrastre de Latas is when the children drag cans and pots
through the streets to banish the "Giant of Botafuegos," who
tries to cover the sky with gray clouds, obscuring the star from
the Three Kings. The cloud is banished so that the children here
might receive their gifts.Later, at the Fiesta de Los Reyes, the
Three Kings bring Christmas gifts to the children, scattering
sweets.
During Carnival, you can celebrate three days of music and fun
with Algeciras as the Goddess of the Carnival and her Nymphs
declare days of pleasure. And on All Saints Day (November 1),
fiestas called Tosantos celebrate the saints with harvest
fruits, nuts, and sugarcane.
Where To Stay
Besides the very nice Hotel Reina Cristina, you can stay in a
variety of bed-and-breakfasts in Algeciras and neighboring small
villages. One excellent choice is Monte de la Torre in Los
Barrios, an Edwardian house with a thousand acres of cork oak
forest to roam, mature gardens to enjoy, and the picturesque
sight of grazing Retinto, a long-horned red cattle.