The Dordogne Region of France- 5 Must-See Venues
The Dordogne Valley, or the Perigord as it is also called by the
locals, is home to many of the "Most Beautiful Villages of
France". This area is not as well known as others in the
country, but it is certainly one of the most beautiful. These 5
venues are among the top sites in the region, and a visit to the
Dordogne is not complete without seeing them all.
1. Domme- Domme is a village situated at the top of a rocky
cliff overlooking the Dordogne valley. From the lookout area,
the view embraces the valley from the Montfort meander in the
east, to Beynac in the west. The view of the tranquil river and
fields of crops belies the violence that took place here in the
middle ages. Domme is a bastide village that was founded by
Philip the Bold in 1283, so it is actually newer than other
villages in the area. People at the time were encouraged to go
to newly founded towns, called bastides, most of which were
planned around a central covered market area. There are numerous
bastides in France dating from this general period. Although
worth a visit any time, Domme is especially nice on market days
when one will find homegrown and homemade fruits and vegetables,
sausages, olives, cheeses, cured hams, and of course a staple of
the Dordogne, foie gras. Check any of the local Offices of
Tourism to find the schedule for markets at Domme or other
villages.
2. La Roque Gageac- This charming village is huddled against a
cliff which drops vertically to the river Dordogne. It features
attractive little streets with interesting homes, churches, and
other buildings, including the Manoir de Tarde, a manor house of
the once locally famous Tarde family. One stretch has
semi-tropical plant life in abundance, as the protection of the
cliff is such that the flora there can survive even in the
winter months. A walking path runs behind the buildings at the
foot of the cliff and provides great views and pictures. The
Troglodyte caves are to be found along here as well, and they
are worth a visit.
3. Beynac- About 2 miles down the road is beautiful Beynac. The
Chateau de Beynac stands on a remarkable site, rising from the
top of a rock as it overlooks the valley spotted with hills
crowned with castles. The castle was once captured by Richard
the Lion Hearted, and over the years and during numerous wars it
was destroyed and then rebuilt. There is a sheer drop of almost
500 ft. from the chateau to the river, and the view is
spectacular. The panorama includes the nearby castles of
Marqueyssac, Castelnaud, and Fayrac. The village, tucked at the
foot of the cliff adjacent to the river, is where the motion
picture "Chocolat" was filmed. A steeply sloping footpath known
locally as the Caminal del Panieraire (basket maker's path- this
was seen in the opening scenes of the film "Chocolat") leads
from the bottom of the village, through rows of renaissance
houses dating from the 15th to the 17th centuries, to the castle
and the church on top. This walk is definitely recommended, but
it does get steep toward the top. Tours of the chateau are
normally in French, but English language tours are available
some mornings. Check with one of the local tourism offices for
availability.
4. Castelnaud- This "chateau fort", or fortified castle, stands
only about 2 kilometers from the chateau de Beynac, and it was
between the two that the battle front between the English and
the French shifted during the Hundred Years War. The chateau
changed hands between the two sides numerous times. There were
several periods of restoration after the middle ages, the last
starting recently in 1969. The castle provides superior views of
the Dordogne valley, and it also houses a museum of medieval and
siege weaponry. One can see several catapults in the courtyard,
even from the valley below. There are also two films, one
relating to the weapons museum and another about the history of
the castle. The surrounding village is quaint, but be prepared
for a steep climb on foot to reach the chateau.
5. Sarlat- A bustling town today, Sarlat grew up around a
Benedictine abbey founded in the 9th century. The abbots
retained their power until the 13th century when internal strife
and corruption caused their downfall. The 13th and early 14th
centuries were a prosperous time for this busy market town, but
the Hundred Years War left it weakened and depopulated. After
this came a period of reconstruction, and most of the town
houses to be seen today were built between 1450-1500. This has
created an architectural unity in renaissance style which is
very attractive. If possible, have dinner in one of the many
restaurants in the old town and see the village at night as
well, as it is attractively lit up. Sarlat's old village has a
number of interesting places to visit including the Cathedrale
of St. Sacerdos; the Maison de la Boetie, where Etienne de la
Boetie, a famous writer and friend of Montaigne, and who also
influenced Rousseau, was born; the Hotel de Maleville; among
others. There are many charming shops, galleries, and
restaurants.
The Dordogne region hosts a number of other interesting sites in
addition to the 5 described above. As these sites are within
about 10 kilometers of each other, one can visit all of them
comfortably in two days. If you have more time to spend in the
area, there are other chateaux and gardens to see, as well as
canoeing, kayaking, and other activities. The area is very
popular among the British and Dutch, many of whom either have
second residences in the region or have moved there full time.
In my opinion this is one of the prettiest and most pleasant
parts of France. The food is excellent, and you cannot visit
here without trying confit or magret de canard, duck confit or
duck breast. It goes without saying that sampling some foie gras
is practically mandatory.