A Castle on Oregon's Coast
Oregon's coastline is full of secrets: veiled pleasures and
surprises, clandestine, deserted beaches and hidden gems
peppering the towns in the form of lodgings or eateries.
But perhaps the most stunning secret on all of Oregon's coast
lies just outside of the art and culture mecca of Cannon Beach,
on the north coast. There's a castle a bit south of town, hidden
behind the walls of trees just north of the Arch Cape Tunnel.
You can become king and queen here, at this insanely romantic
spot that smacks of something between the Bavarian castle that
inspired Disneyland's signature structure and the Oregon ski
lodge featured in "The Shining."
St. Bernard's Bed & Breakfast is a remarkable and elegant
construction peppered with artistic details, containing seven
striking guestrooms filled with antiques, beautiful furnishings
and a sense of the Victorian fused with modern grace.
On one particular night in April, I arrive at St. Bernard's
close to 8:30 p.m., and it's pitch black. I've been here before
a few times and seen bits of it, but for the first time I park
in back, spotting the charming strings of lights in the garden
and on the walls, as well as the two deer figures made of light
bulbs. I stop to stare and gawk at these, and at the archway
going through the building, half expecting to see a member of
some royal family show up in a carriage and be ushered out by
some servant.
Inside the enormous front door, owner Barbara Dau invites me in
and up the snaking, stone stairway into the living room. Here,
chandeliers and classy furniture inhabit the area, with a nifty
little rounded nook in one corner - obviously part of the
"tower." In the early evenings, Barbara hosts "social hours" for
the guests here, featuring wine and camaraderie in front of the
fireplace.
I arrive too late for this, of course, but Barbara tells me
these can sometimes be fun-packed and lively, while at other
times none of the guests show up at all. It's a no-pressure
event, and with incredible beaches just a block away - who can
blame them? Just across the street are the pristine, immaculate
sands of Arch Cape, a tiny unincorporated community which
contains one store and a smattering of homes. In front of it
sits a gorgeous stretch of beach that runs for miles to the
north, while immediately to the south hovers a craggy basalt
cliff, where access to a wild and weird rocky cove is
occasionally granted by low tides.
The rooms at St. Bernard's Bed & Breakfast are jaw dropping - at
the very least. The "Ginger" ($179) features blue and white
fabrics, oriental ginger jars and a love seat, with a king size
bed from Austria. In "Gaugin" ($169) there's a cozy window seat,
a funky bathtub, muted pastels of the artist and a queen size
bed. The stunning "Heather" ($189) is on the top floor and
features a private deck, vaulted ceilings and a sitting area
with a love seat. The "Parisian" ($149) comes with soothing,
hand painted floral wallpaper, a window seat, a wingback chair,
and has a Victorian vibe. The gorgeous "Tower" is in the tower
and it's huge ($209), with a sitting area, large soaking tub,
various antiques, and it's draped in dreamy white lace. The
"Provence" ($209) is on the garden level and is sequestered away
from the rest of this small palace, with terra cotta floors,
Jacuzzi and French doors opening into a private patio.
My room was the "Tapestry" ($209), with an incredible king size
bed, engaging tapestries on the wall and floor, a big French
armoire, and enormous soaking tub that screams honeymoon
hangout. There's a curious little reading nook with a stained
glass ceiling, and the TV comes encased in a cute replica of a
castle.
At night, the ocean was the only sound you heard: soothing and
cozy beyond belief.
In the morning, I notice the window (ironically) gazes straight
out to a view of Castle Rock - just offshore from Arch Cape.
Morning also means a luscious, gourmet, home cooked meal
prepared by Dau herself. Dau was a chemist in her former life in
Chicago, and joked that meal making must be an extension of that
part of chemists that like to cook things. (Given this castle
vibe, I laugh to myself and imagine her in a lab coat, cackling
maniacally as she whips up a dish while lighting thunders all
around).
Guests sit together in the beautiful atrium-like dining room,
where they chat and get to know each other. I sat with a young
couple from Portland and another older couple from Michigan who
have been regulars since the place started in 1995. In fact,
they were among the first guests in its first two weeks.
Besides these numerous, memorable amenities, St. Bernard's
offers gift certificates. Dau also offers wedding packages that
accommodate up to 60 people and her signature, wondrous cooking.
Other irresistible elements of this area include more secret
beaches just to the south and north. A few miles north, you'll
find the mesmerizing Hug Point, which is stuffed with odd and
intriguing geologic formations like funky sea caves, a waterfall
and various shapes and cracks in the cliffs. Its most
interesting landmark is a chunk of road blasted out of a basalt
promontory - a remnant of when the beaches were the only real
highway the coastal region had, back around 1910. You can even
see the leftovers of a traffic light embedded in the rock. In
Cannon Beach, you'll find a huge array of upscale restaurants
that are legendary, as well as some Lewis & Clark landmarks.
St. Bernard's Bed & Breakfast is on East Ocean Rd., just north
of the Arch Cape Tunnel. www.st-bernards.com. 800-436-2848.
More on the region can be found at www.beachconnection.net