Be Mine...Bejeweled...Beware. Advice for Buying Gemstone Jewelry
Gemstones can be naturally mined, laboratory-created or total
imitation. Natural gemstones (like rubies, sapphires, diamonds),
as the name implies, were made by Mother Nature. Stones created
in a lab can look identical to stones mined from the earth since
they have essentially the same chemical, physical and visual
properties as natural gemstones. The major difference is the
cost. Laboratory-created stones do not have the rarity or
uniqueness of naturally colored stones and, consequently, are
much less expensive than naturally mined stones. Because these
synthetic stones look similar to the real stones, they must be
identified (labeled) as being lab-created. In contrast,
imitation stones look like natural stones in appearance only,
and may be glass, plastic, or less costly stones.
Gemstones can be measured by weight, size or both. The basic
unit for weighing gemstones is the carat (with a C), which is
equal to one-fifth of a gram. Carats are divided into 100
smaller units, called points. For example, a half-carat gemstone
would weigh .50 carats or 50 points. When gemstones are measured
by dimensions, the size is expressed in millimeters (for
example, 7x5 mm.). Many gemstones are treated in some manner to
improve their appearance or durability, or even change their
color. Jewelers should tell you whether the gemstone you are
considering has been treated since it may affect its value or
require some special care.
Diamonds, the proverbial girls' best friend, are valued on four
basic criteria: color, clarity, cut, and carat. The color of a
diamond is usually "graded" on a scale. However, scales are not
uniform: a "D" may be the best color on one scale, but not for
another. Clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal
flaws, called inclusions, which occur naturally within the
stone, or to external blemishes, such as scratches or chips. A
diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible
surface or internal imperfections when viewed under a 10-power
magnification by a skilled diamond grader. Make sure you know
how a particular scale and grade represent the color or clarity
of the diamond you are considering. Cut refers not only to the
shape of the diamond, but also to size, angle, uniformity and
polish of the facets (faces of the stone). Carat weight may be
described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat, as
described above.
Imitation diamonds, such as cubic zirconia, resemble diamonds in
appearance but are much less costly since they are made in a
laboratory. Other synthetics such as lab-created moissanite,
also resemble diamonds and may not be detected by the
instruments used to identify cubic zirconia. Ask your jeweler if
he has the latest testing equipment to distinguish between real
diamonds and lab-created stones.
Natural or "real" pearls are made by oysters and other mollusks.
Cultured pearls are also grown by mollusks, but with human
assistance: that is, an irritant introduced into the shells
causes a pearl to grow. Imitation pearls are completely man-made
using glass, plastic or organic materials. Because natural
pearls are very rare, most pearls used in jewelry are either
cultured or imitation. Cultured pearls, because they are
produced by mollusks, are usually more expensive that imitation
pearls. A pearl's value is largely based on size, usually state
in millimeters, and the quality of its nacre coating, which
gives it luster. Jewelers should tell you whether a pearl is
imitation or cultured.
Some black, bronze, gold purple, blue and orange pearls, whether
natural or cultured, occur that way in nature. Some, however,
are dyed through various processes and jewelers should tell you
whether the colored pearls are naturally colored, dyed or
irradiated.
When you're in the market for a piece of jewelry for yourself or
someone you love, shop around. Whether it is online, in catalogs
or at a traditional store make comparisons. Compare quality,
price, and service. Ask about refund and return policies before
you buy. Check for the appropriate markings on metal jewelry.
And make sure you get a sales receipt containing any information
you relied on when making your purchase.
Best wishes for an enjoyable and rewarding shopping experience!