Paradise Lost
Travel to an African country that borders Sudan, Somalia, Kenya
and Eritrea can be dangerous to your health in more ways than
one. But, if you're a skydiving, snowboarding, tomb raiding
Indiana Jones kind 'a trekker, you might find Ethiopia just your
cup of strong coffee.
Since the murder in 1975 of the
emperor, strangled in the basement of his palace, Ethiopia has
seesawed from absolute rule by a God-King, to Marxist/Military
totalitarianism to the present Federal Democratic Republic of
Ethiopia with a Constitution. Though tribal blood feuds do exist
in parts of the country, the U.S. has an embassy in Addis Ababa,
and you can check the State Department's travel alerts.
The Last Emperor
Now that you've packed and done your
homework, you're ready to go. You've read that Ethiopia's
history goes back to the dawn of man. Archaeologists have
unearthed human remains that carbon-date 3.2 million years ago.
I worked in the capital, Addis Ababa during the reign of
Ethiopia's last emperor. A tiny man with a title larger than
himself, "Emperor Haile Selassi I, Conquering Lion of the Tribe
of Judah, Elect of God, King of Kings of Ethiopia" proclaimed
himself the direct descendant of Menilek I, son of King Solomon
and the Queen of Sheba.
Each Christmas Day, the emperor
opened his palace to foreign embassy bigwigs for tea and sweets
while his pet lions strolled around the gardens. I got to go
only because I was taking photos for an official brochure. Can
you imagine tea with Haile Selassi? I lived near the palace and
went to bed each night to the screech of peacocks and the roar
of those noisy cats.
To experience the geological
diversity of the land you only have to fly into the 8,000-foot
high capital. The mountains and plateaus seem to rise up to meet
you. Eucalyptus forests, high canyons, steep gorges, scrub
desert and ice-cold lakes are secret untamed places for hikers,
climbers and happy campers. You'll find yourself eating Injera
and Wat with your fingers. Injera is baked from a sourdough
batter and placed on your tabletop like a gigantic pancake. Wat
is the stew that's served in the middle of the Injera. You tear
off a piece of Injera and use it to scoop up the fiery stew
(chicken, meat or vegetables). You don't want to find yourself
on the other end of a meal. At the Sudanese border, the Baro
River teems with crocodiles. Sadly, I lost a friend there. See
http://www.peacecorpswriters.org/pages/2001/0101/101cllook.html
Hyena Man
Addis Ababa is home to Ethiopian
Orthodox Churches, U.N. Economic Commission For Africa, museums
and some modern hotels that did not exist when I rubbed elbows
with the little king! Back then there were no streetlamps. After
dark, hyenas skulked into the city scavenging for anything they
could get their jaws around, garbage or human. There was a man,
a prowler of shadows himself, who had a way with the nasty
predators. Wandering the back alleys, he mysteriously lured the
beasts to him and then out of town, kind of like a Pied Piper.
We called him "the hyena man," and that is all we knew about
him. Present day "entrepreneurs" have made the former event into
a thriving business performed for tourists.
The Blue
Nile Falls
We took off in a single engine Cessna T-210
from the ancient capital of Gondar heading for Bahir Dar and
Lake Tana, source of the Blue Nile. In Ethiopia, everything was
ancient, including the Cessna. A former Korean War Ace, Walt had
been spraying malaria-infected areas for years. The Blue Nile,
as opposed to the brownish White Nile in Egypt, gets its name
from the waters of Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia, from
whence the river flows to Khartoum and on into Egypt. Walt
didn't fly over the falls; he practically flew into them.
Swooping low on the first run, I nearly lost my breakfast, but I
asked him to do it again for a closer shot. Staring up at me
through the tree branches of the surrounding rainforest was the
white-fringed face of a silky black and white long-tailed
monkey. Hunted to near extinction for its beautiful coat, the
Colobus Monkey, the only kind of its species without a thumb, is
an endangered acrobatic marvel of grace and elegance.
Mist from the thundering waters creates a rainbow bridge to the
sun. I was snapping photos when bullets began tearing through
the fuselage, zapping Walt in his bottom. We couldn't see the
shooters but we knew they wanted the Cessna. Despite terrible
pain, the seasoned pilot wasn't going to let them have it.
Shouting obscenities over my prayers, he managed to hold on to
the faltering plane while the floorboards soaked up his blood.
We arrived in Bahir Dar with Walt's pride as wounded as his
anatomy. After medical attention and a few belts of Jack
Daniels, the bush pilot was on cloud nine.
Rock
Churches of Lalibela
Ethiopian Airways' hotshot pilots
take off and land on postage stamp plateaus. A short flight from
Addis is the tiny town of Lalibela whose airport terminal, in my
time, was a tin roofed hut. Never mind. Hidden under ground are
eleven monolithic churches carved from rock. Built in the
thirteenth century, the churches are holy places of Ethiopian
Christian pilgrimage. I had to crawl down into the subterranean
spaces on my hands and knees. Once inside, I was in the Middle
Ages. A priest with a torch stood in the darkness guarding an
altar and religious wall paintings. He looked like he'd been
standing there for 500 years! Monks tell you the Ark of the
Covenant is similarly hidden in a monastery in the ancient city
of Axum, where Queen Sheba stayed in the 10th century B.C.
Someone should tell Steven Spielberg.
"Simplicity-Courage-Humor-Soul"