Mr
The Story of Leith On the Firth of Forth near to Scotland's
Capital city is the Port of Leith. Not a large Port by
international standards but despite this one of the most famous
ports not only in Scotland but also in the United Kingdom.
Within its small compass the story of Scotland can be told. It
has seen war and death, times of plague, battles on the Forth,
Kings and Queens of Scotland, days of high adventure, the
Reformation of the Church of Scotland started here and was
completed in Leith in 1560 decided on the battle field between
Leith and Edinburgh at the Siege of Leith, it has seen Trials
for Witchcraft, The Knight Templars (Crusaders) and the Knights
of St John from Torphican, The Industrial Revolution which
brought wealth to a few and misery to the many (the industrial
Revolution was the period from the late 18th century to
throughout the 19th century which saw people move from the
countryside into the large towns and cities to find work in the
new factories driven by the newly invented steam engines, it
also seen the development of steam trains, the replacement of
wooden hull ships by steam ships (eg the Sirius which was built
in Leith in the 19th century was the first steamship to cross
the Atlantic), the list of famous people and events in the
history of Leith is endless. So where to begin the Story....
Imagine in you minds eye a river running through a thick
forest. Within the forest are deer, wolves, foxes, bears and the
Great Elk. On the banks of the river is a small village of the
Votandini these are a Celtic people who covered their bodies in
Tattoos from head to foot. In battle they would cut of the heads
of their enemies and drill holes in the skull (Trepanning) after
which they were buried around sacred wells. The idea was that
the spirits of the dead warriors would protect the sacred wells
from evil spirits because in Celtic Mythology the wells were
gateways to the other world. The world of Ghosts and spirits
such as the earth spirits, the spirits of the nature. This was
Leith almost 3000 years ago before the Romans ever saw our
district long before the district was ever called Leith. Near to
the village was a clearing in the forest and the people decided
to hack a path from the village to the clearing and the clearing
became the village Graveyard. The path from the village to the
clearing became in time the "Kirkgate" and for centuries chapels
were built along the Kirkgate. The Graveyard in time became the
Churchyard of South Leith Parish Church. It is known from
archaeology that South Leith Parish Church sits on an ancient
Celtic sacred site.
The name Leith itself comes from two possible roots. If you look
at old maps of Leith the spelling of Leith Changes in several
different ways but the main spellings are "Leeth" and "Lyth" the
meaning of "Leeth" is a crossroads and Lyth means fish in short
Leith was the town which could be approached from the east or
west along the coast or from the South and it was possible to
catch a ferry to go north across the Forth it also had a fish
market. The people paying their tithes (a tenth of their
earnings were paid to the church) in fish, which was eaten on
the many holy days of the Roman Catholic Church.
The first mention of Leith is in founding charter of Holyrood
Abbey in 1128 in which it is called "InverLeith". The word
"Inver" meaning from the Gaelic, the mouth of a river. Leading
to the assumption that the river got its name from a family
called Leith. The only problem with this is there was never a
family called Leith connected to Leith to give it its name. Also
Leith was never a Gaelic speaking area it became Anglo- Saxon
and formed part along with Edinburgh of Northumbria, which was
made up of two Kingdoms Bernica and Deria with its capital at
Bamburgh.
The first important family connected to Leith was the de
Lestalric family who were Normans invited into Scotland by David
I and they built a castle at Lochend giving the district around
it the name in later years Restalrig. This family died out in
1382 and passed onto the Logan family until 1609 when James VI
disinherited the Logan family for high treason. After which it
was held by the Balmerino family until 1746 which because of
their adherence to the Jacobite cause (ie supporters of the
Stewart cause to claim the throne of Great Britain) Lord
Balmerino was not only disinherited but was beheaded for
treason. Leith was passed to Lord Murray until the 1920's when
all the remaining land at Restalrig and Lochend was passed to
the Edinburgh Council.
The main trades in the past were Shipbuilding, the Wine Trade,
flour milling, biscuit making, rope making and the Timber Trade.
In Leith Ramage and Fergusons, Hawthorns did shipbuilding. Cran
and Somerville, Robb and Mortons. Rope making was done at the
Roperie at Salmander St. Along with these was sugar refining and
Glass making.
So how did Leith become the Principal Port for Scotland? This
happened in 1296. Edward I of England realised that the only way
to defeat the Scots was by destroying the economy of the
country. At this time wool from the Border Abbeys such as
Melrose and Kelso was exported to the Low Countries (Belgium and
Holland which were part of what was called the Hanseatic League)
through Berwick. So in 1296 Berwick was destroyed, something
like 7-9000 people were killed, and the trade was destroyed. The
monks had a problem, which was solved by putting the wool on the
backs of horses over the hills, up the Old Dalkeith road, around
Arthur Seat, and into Leith and so from 1296 to 1707 Leith was
the Principal Port for Scotland. In 1707 due to Union of
Parliaments Glasgow gradually superseded Leith due to the Clyde
being deeper and because of Trade with North America.
Some dates of importance:
AD 80 Agricola marches through Leith from Inveresk
AD 208 The Emperor Severus encamps at Cramond
AD 1128 David I founds Holyrood
AD 1296 The Abbot of Holyrood. Sir John de Lestalric, and the
Parson of Restalrig swear fealty to Edward I
AD 1314 Edward II camps on Leith Links before Bannockburn
AD 1335 The English occupy Leith
AD 1434 James I builds the Kings Wark (Armoury for Scotland)
AD 1493 Robert Ballantyne Abbot of Holyrood builds St Ninians
Church. This later becomes North Leith Parish Church
AD 1511 The Great Michael launched at Newhaven (this was the
Largest warship of the Tudor age)
AD 1544/47 Leith burnt on the orders of Henry VIII during the
"rough Wooing"
AD 1560 The Siege of Leith
AD 1593 Trials and executions for witchcraft
AD 1631 Balmerino House built in the Kirkgate
AD 1650 Battle of Dunbar. Leith occupied by Oliver Cromwell
AD 1698 The Darien Expedition leaves from Leith
AD 1751 Turnpike Act. Bonnington Toll erected
AD 1806 The Old Dock opened. The Queens Dock built 1817, The
Victoria Dock 1852, The Albert Dock 1869, The Edinburgh Dock
1881 and the Imperial Dock 1904
AD 1822 George IV lands in Leith
AD 1833 Leith becomes an independent parliamentary Burgh
AD 1915 The Gretna disaster
AD 1920 Leith is amalgamated with Edinburgh
Leith has an extensive history going back several thousand
years. The above is just a very small sample of what is
available and known about Leith. For example the history of
South Leith Church goes back several hundred years, The
Preceptory of St Anthony founded approximately 1380 and was
demolished in the Siege of Leith, Writers and Painters connected
with Leith, The Templar connection the list goes on and on and
is too large a subject to cover in this brief introduction.