Far below the surface of Chattanooga's historic Lookout Mountain, two-hundred-million year-old stalagmites studded the cave path like teeth jutting from the jaws of a Great White shark. We walked a path that zigzagged through the dim cavern 1,120 feet below the surface, the sound of water a steady hum in the distance. In front of me, my friend John climbed through a narrow passageway.

"Ouch!," he yelled.

Our guide, Adam, grinned. John, over six feet tall, had just had a run-in with Headache Ridge, one of many astounding rock formations at Ruby Falls with fitting names such as Frozen Niagra and Cranium Pinball. "Tall people, watch your heads," Adam said. "Short people, watch the tall people hit their heads."

Soon, the sound of water grew to a roar, and the passageway opened into an immense cavern. A waterfall, illuminated by spotlights, thundered from a hole in the ceiling as if shot from a fireman's hose, plunging 145 feet into a crystal-clear, four-foot deep pool on the cavern floor. Ruby Falls now ranks as one of the most popular attractions in Southeast Tennessee, and we can thank explorer Leo Lambert and his wife, Ruby for excavating these caverns more than 70 years ago.

I'd almost turned down the invitation to visit Tennessee; Chattanooga seemed somewhat dull in comparison to an Eastern European vacation I'd recently had to cancel. Once there, though, I found that Chattanooga has much to offer. Split down the middle by the meandering Tennessee River and ringed by scenic mountains, the city offers natural beauty treasured by nature lovers and outdoor sports enthusiasts alike. Plus, big changes are underway: Chattanooga's ambitious 21st Century Waterfront Plan, unveiled in 2002, completed this year. The plan includes the redevelopment of the north and south shores of the Tennessee River in downtown Chattanooga, bringing with it new economic, cultural and educational opportunities.

The 21st Century Waterfront Plan will finalize Chattanooga's return to the river, which has been vital to Chattanooga ever since Hernando DeSoto stopped here during his travels along the river in search of gold back in 1540