Wood floor installation
Wood is a superior floor covering in all but wet locations. Wood flooring is available in strips, planks and tiles, either solid or laminated. Made of hardwood, generally maple, cherry or oak; the strips and tiles have tongue-and-groove joints for secure laying. Most types are available finished or unfinished, and rough planking can be up to one foot wide, although rarely used because wide boards are more susceptible to curling and cupping.
Laminated wood flooring
Laminated wood floorings are normally comprised of a hardwood veneer over a solid pine core, or several layers of hardwood glued together under pressure, much like plywood. They are available in a variety of sizes and designs, and sometimes parquet tiles will be attached to a fabric backing, to facilitate faster, easier alignment. Laminated wood flooring is usually glued in place, and can be laid over any clean, dry sub-floor. Special methods and precautions must be observed when installing hardwood flooring on concrete, especially in basements where potential humidity levels may be sufficient to cause the wood to swell and buckle upwards.
If your sub-floor is rough or uneven, an underlay of 1/4" plywood properly installed, will aid in the installation, appearance and longevity of your hardwood floor. It will also help reduce squeaks and the potential for cracking. If the new floor is higher than any adjacent floors, the edges (especially in doorways) should be finished with rounded or tapered hardwood mouldings.
The underlay can be covered with 15 lb. felt (sometimes known as tar paper, roofing felt, or building paper) which will further reduce squeaking and add to the life of the floor. Handling and storage is extremely important, and wood flooring materials should be allowed to rest for a minimum of one week in the area in which they are to be installed. This will allow the moisture content of the wood to reach some equilibrium with it's surroundings; otherwise the floor boards may shrink or swell, sometimes quite drastically. The flooring should parallel the room's long dimension, scattering the end-to-end joints, and leaving a perimeter gap equal to the thickness of the boards. Experienced flooring people will know just how tight to lay the boards, depending on the moisture content of the wood, and the relative humidity level in the room(s) on the day of installation.
Nailing hardwood
The choice of nails, or other fasteners, is also critical to the successful installation of your floor. With unfinished flooring, the fasteners must be properly set, to facilitate sanding prior to finishing.
FLOATING FLOORS are made of laminated floor panels, laid over 1/8" high-density foam Floating wood floor system, over concrete slab.underlay, and glued at the joints. For basement floors, 6-mil polyethylene vapour barrier can be laid under the foam. Consult with your materials supplier and/or other experienced people before attempting to install a hardwood floor in a basement.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Selecting, installing and finishing a hardwood floor can be a rewarding experience, but do your homework first! If you have minimal experience working with wood, or you're unsure about the particular installation, you should consider hiring a professional. The cost of the materials is quite high as compared to other floor coverings, and a professional installation will guard against damage, and guarantee satisfaction with your new hardwood floor.
Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.
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