It is important to add organic matter to your soil every year - whether you're using chemical fertilizers or gardening organically. Healthy soil is alive, actually teaming with earthworms and micro-organisms by the millions that have each got particular functions in making the soil fertile. If your garden soil is going to continue to produce for you, it needs to be fed plenty of organic material.

Soil life eats and decomposes organic matter, which causes minerals to be released in a form that plant roots can absorb. In addition to this fertilizing effect, all the organic waste helps the texture of the soil - loosening hard-packed clay or binding loose, sandy soil. Humus gives the soil its necessary sponge-like texture that allows air circulation and moisture retention.

For these beneficial processes to take place, the life in soil needs fresh fuel, (organic matter). Without this food, earthworms leave and microbes die, causing nutrients to get locked away by soil particles, unavailable to the plants. Insect pests and diseases then attack the under- nourished and vulnerable plants. It doesn't help to pour on the chemical fertilizers; they don't contribute to a flourishing soil life or spongy soil texture.

This is a simplification of a very complex natural process of soil chemistry that justifies in-depth study in its own. But the intention here is to give a basic idea of the absolute necessity of a generous annual addition of organic matter to all continuously used garden soil. Now, here are some suggestions about how to feed the soil.

Haul in compost, buying it in packaged form or by the yard from nurseries. Processors in your area (cider mills, canneries, etc.) often have organic material for the taking. Farms nearby might welcome removal of animal manures: horse, cattle, chicken, rabbit are all good. Of course, chop garden residues and weeds into the soil after the crop is finished. Also chop in the hay or straw that was used as mulch. Gather leaves and lawn clippings and dig them in.

Here's the quickest, least hassle method for taking just about any stretch of soil and turning it into excellent loam. Grow a cover-crop, or green manure, and simply till it in. This practice, when done over time, actually replenishes the top-soil instead of removing it with harvested crops. This is a particular benefit for gardeners who are growing food in the same location over a period of years.

Notes on using green manures:

1) You can grow green manures in a rotation (an early green manure followed by a late-season planting of produce, or a late cover-crop following an early summer harvest like lettuce and peas) so that even if you have a small garden you will have a harvest crop as well as a cover-crop every year.

2) Using green manures can be done by any gardener with or without powered equipment. However, a roto-tiller is the easiest method. If necessary, you can rent one.

Here are the most common kinds of cover-crops for home use.

A) Buckwheat: in addition to growing well even in poor soil, it chokes out weeds. Sow buckwheat in summer, after harvesting peas, etc.

B) Ryegrass: this grows rapidly and is very hardy, adding a good amount of bulk. Best to choose annual varieties. Ryegrass is a good crop for late-summer since it dies back for easy tilling in spring.

C) Legumes (alfalfa, peas, vetch, soybeans, etc.): these will "fix" nitrogen from the air if you use "inoculated" seeds, attracting the right micro-organisms. Notice that some legumes are vegetables; giving both food and green manure from the same crop.

In addition to its benefits to soil, there are many good reasons to grow green manure. They help with weed control, bee attraction, and provide a beautiful green cover that keeps the garden looking nice right up to the time snow flies.

Valerie Palmer, writer and master gardener, contributes to TLC Gardening, offering valuable free information to enhance your gardening experience. Also visit Full Storage or FB Home to find more articles by Valerie Palmer.