To the un-trained eye, much of the handmade jewelry available for sale on the internet, in boutiques and at craft fairs may look to be essentially the same. However, this is not the case. Jewelry designers have a myriad of choices when creating their pieces. It is important to be aware of the different materials that may be used and how they compare; both in quality and in price.
Metals
The most common metals found in handmade jewelry are some form of silver or gold. Most jewelry buyers, however, are unaware of the differences between materials that bear similar names.
Fine Silver
Fine silver is the purest form of silver that is commonly used in jewelry. It is 99% pure silver. As well as being more costly, fine silver is softer than sterling, and will not tarnish.
Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is the most common form of silver used in handmade jewelry in the United States. Sterling silver is 92.5% silver, the rest is a combination of other metals including nickel and copper. This makes sterling more affordable, but it also makes the jewelry more likely to tarnish.
Silver Plate
Silver plate is a very, very thin layer of silver over a base metal, commonly brass. Over time, the silver plating will wear off and reveal the duller metal below.
Karat Gold
This is what most people think of as gold. The higher the karat number, the purer and more valuable the gold. Common variations are 10, 14, 18, 22 and 24 karat gold. As the karat number increases, so does the bright yellow color of the gold and the softness. Gold is also available in white and rose colors.
Vermeil
This material is actually gold-plated sterling silver. Many people prefer vermeil because it is a more affordable option than pure gold, but is still entirely made of precious metal. Most vermeil is plated with high-karat gold, and has a bright yellow color.
Gold Filled
Gold filled beads, wire and chain are made by applying a coating of gold to a base metal core. It is also called rolled gold. Unlike plating, this layer is quite thick and is very unlikely to rub off in the life of the jewelry. It is an affordable and durable alternative to karat gold. Most gold filled components are made with 14 karat gold.
Gold Plate
Like silver plate, gold plate is made by covering a base metal with a very thin layer of real gold. The layer of gold is likely to rub of, generally within several years of purchase, depending on how often the piece is worn, and what it is subjected to. While plating offers a very affordable option for trendy jewelry, it is not a good choice for jewelry that is intended to be worn often, or to become a family heirloom.
Gemstones
There are many varieties of natural, synthetic, and enhanced gemstones available to jewelry designers today. Although most people have no idea about the vast range of possibilities there are when buying gemstones, it is very important to be aware of the differences when buying handcrafted jewelry.
Dyeing Gemstones
Dyeing gemstones is not necessarily a bad thing. It can bring life to otherwise dull materials. Be aware that jewelry made with dyed stones may bleed color if it gets wet. This may be avoided if the designer rinses the beads before using them in finished pieces.
Many quartzes, including garnet, amethyst and rose quartz are commonly dyed to enhance their natural color. Howlite and malaysian jade (not really jade) are also often dyed in very bright hues of purples, pinks and blues.
Chalcedony is another stone that is often dyed into brighter shades. It is important to be aware that some dyed chalcedony will fade over time. To avoid fading, do not store your chalcedony jewelry in direct sunlight.
Freshwater pearls are commonly dyed as well, but do not seem to have a problem with fading or bleeding their color.
Enhancing Gemstones
Enhancing gemstones is the process of treating them either with chemicals, heat or pressure to increase their value or durability. Smoky quartz is commonly enhanced to improve its color. Turquoise is often stabilized, or impregnated with a resin substance to make it harder and less absorbent of water and oils which may damage it.
Synthetic Gemstones
This is where it's most important to know exactly what you're buying. Many natural gemstones have very convincing synthetic counterparts. Some common ones are turquoise, jade, coral, and many types of quartz.
The synthetic quartzes, actually made of glass, are now found in a rainbow of colors and a wide variety of names. When these synthetic quartzes were first introduced to the United States by overseas manufacturers, they fooled some very experienced bead retailers and jewelry designers. Common varieties of synthetic quartz are tanzanite quartz, amethyst quartz, lilac quartz, and "fruity" quartzes. These include strawberry, cherry, blueberry and pineapple.
Synthetic gemstone beads can be gorgeous and affordable additions to a designer's palette. Some very lovely variations include opalite and goldstone.
Putting it all Together
It is always a good idea to ask the designer direct questions about the materials used in his or her designs if you are at all concerned about authenticity or quality. Most designers will greatly appreciate your interest and happily answer your questions.
All of the choices can be overwhelming, but this shouldn't deter you from buying handcrafted jewelry. A design created by an artist is unique and special. Armed with your new knowledge, you'll be able to find the perfect piece of jewelry that you'll enjoy for years to come.
Georgia Hadley is a jewelry designer, writer, and small business owner who lives in rural Vermont. In addition to her own business, Adorneya Jewelry (http://www.adorneya.com), she is also a founding editor of Craft Revolution (http://www.craftrevolution.com), a website dedicated to promoting mainstream awareness of independent designers and their products as desirable alternatives to big-box stores.