Elizabeth Bennet's Wardrobe: Undress, Half Dress, Full Dress, Headdress! Making Sense of It All

Let us understand from the start that the term "Undress" did not signify being unclothed. Likewise, "Half Dress" did not mean one was literally half- dressed. The terms are categorical, not literal. Like Full-Dress, their name referred more to function than a state of being. In which case you may ask, 'What does it all mean?'

It means there had to be many gowns in a genteel Regency lady's wardrobe--regardless of the size of her fortune. Indeed, to be active in society the necessity of owning a large wardrobe could hardly be avoided. In a small town such as Longbourne (where the Bennett's lived) the categories no doubt overlapped more than they would, say, for a debutante in London.

Nevertheless, a number of categories of dress were necessary, and of course there would have to be variety within each category--and this, no matter where you dwelt, for there were different uses for

the different categories, as we shall see.

Having said that, one could argue there are only two main categories of clothing for the Regency belle: Undress and Full Dress. In this "model", Undress includes all of the gowns worn during the day, and what is otherwise called Half Dress. (Which is to say, the majority of clothing for daytime, and even perhaps, informal evening wear.)

Day gowns include any gown worn for the morning, walking out, shopping, carriage riding, or making calls. Full Dress, on the other hand, was for the evening Ball, very fancy Dinner, Opera or appearance at Court. (The Royal Court, not a court of law.)

The chief difference between Undress and Full was a lower bodice for the evening, but in practice full dress implied a whole ensemble; A short-sleeved empire-waisted, low-necked gown, (generally of muslin but by no means restricted to such) and including evening gloves, a fancy headdress of some sort, a few jewels, a fan, perhaps a reticule, and satin slippers. Other accessories could also be worn or on hand: feathers, boas, shawls, scarves and fans, to name the most common.

The following gowns constituted Undress.

  • Morning dress
  • Walking-out dress
  • Carriage dress
  • Promenade dress
  • Afternoon dress
  • Riding dress (or Habit)
  • Half-dress

    • See the difference? In theory, you were in Undress in the morning, Half-dress in the afternoon, and Full Dress for evening events. (Such as, a dinner or soiree, opera, ballet, theatre, concert, or ball). Court Dress was also considered Full Dress, though it had extravagant requirements that no other occasion called for.

    According to the Georgian Index, a wonderful online resource for Regency fans, Dinner Dress and Opera Dress fall into the category of "Half Dress." And only "Evening, Ball and Court Dresses" passed as Full Dress. Is your head swimming, yet? If not, consider that the Riding Habit might not fit into any of the above, but simply constitute a category in its own right!

    Ah, so many dresses, so little time! No wonder the all-important Regency "season" was a roller-coaster ride of entertainments, diversions and delights. A lady must needs have enough events to make use of such an extensive wardrobe, and enough gowns in her possession to attend them in "the mode." Pity the poor chit who couldn't follow protocol or dress for the occasion. Such was the challenge for families with more pretension than means, who wished to launch a Regency buck or belle into the swirl of the fashionable elite.

    The Regency. There's never been a time quite like it. You've got to love it!

    PS:(I didn't forget about Headdress. Article coming soon!) copyright Linore Rose Burkard 2006

    Linore Rose Burkard - EzineArticles Expert Author

    Linore Rose Burkard is the Author/Editor of the monthly eZine, "Upon My Word! Facts, Fashion and Figures of the Regency." Subscribe for free at http://www.LinoreRoseBurkard.com/Regency_eZine.html Ms. Burkard is also the author of the Regency Romance, Before the Season Ends, a ground-breaking new book which combines the Regency with Inspirational Romance! (Love "Pride and Prejudice?" You'll love this book.) Go to: http://www.LinoreRoseBurkard.com.