Vancouver Island is a surprisingly diverse region on Canada's West Coast off the mainland of British Columbia. Its large sparsely populated area has one of the world's most diverse ecosystems: rainforests, marshes, meadows, beaches, mountains, rivers and lakes, which create habitats for multitudes of wildlife species. The Island in fact is one of the world's premier locations for whale watching and birding, as well as salmon and trout fishing.

Much of the island has been protected as parkland. It contains many pockets of old-growth fir and cedar forests as well as rare, naturally occurring groves of Garry oak. The Beaufort Mountain Range bisects Vancouver Island, north to south, which is home to one of Canada's biggest all-natural ski bases. The beauty and tranquility of this region has long been a draw for artists and artisans. Galleries, studios and shops selling unique, locally produced arts and crafts are found in many population centers.

The southern tip of Vancouver Island is anchored by the city of Victoria (pop: 300,000), once known mainly as a city of affluent retirees and now a bustling commercial center and a booming tourist center. It's also the capital of British Columbia. There are several must see attractions here, the first being the Butchart Gardens - famous world over for its many varieties of flowers, shrubbery and trees. The other must-see is the High Tea in the afternoon at the Empress Hotel. Facing the busy sheltered harbor front, High Tea is a custom imported from the London high society and it has flourished here in Victoria for well over a century.

Nanaimo (pop: 73,000) is located on the east side of Vancouver Island, along the Strait of Georgia. It is Vancouver Island's second-largest city; its central location makes it a good starting point for exploring central Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. The climate is one of the mildest and sunniest in Canada, while the scenery is quintessentially Vancouver Island: temperate coastal rainforests, sparkling ocean and majestic mountain ranges. Nanaimo also enjoys a reputation as a home for creative and artistic personalities who contribute to the character of the city's eclectic Harbour Front area and its laid-back island lifestyle in general.

Port Hardy (pop: 4,574) is the largest community on the coast of North Vancouver Island. It's the gateway to the Discovery Coast Passage via the ferries and freighters that ship out of Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, the Queen Charlotte Islands and even as far north as Anchorage, Alaska. It's also the northern terminus of the Vancouver Island Highway; it's where most North Island adventures begin. Because it's a business centre as well as a tourist destination, it feels busier than other island communities of similar size. It also offers more in the way of amenities and services. Visitors have access to a full range of recreational facilities, shopping options, retail services and accommodation.

There is world-class saltwater fishing, coldwater diving and wilderness hiking experiences available. Aboriginal artists, some of the best on the island, who produce exquisite pieces in a range of mediums, dominate the art scene. Magnificent Kwakiutl masks from the Port Hardy area are highly prized by collectors.

On the west coast is Port Alberni (pop: 17,743) and the pastoral Alberni Valley that serve as the gateway to BC's west coast. Just a 193-km (120-mi) drive northwest from the provincial capital, Victoria, Port Alberni boasts a magnificent, deep-sea port that opens to Alberni Inlet, Barkley Sound and the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by freshwater lakes and streams, the area is wildly popular for its salmon sports fishing (appropriate license(s) required), as well as for hiking, camping and kayaking. It is from Port Alberni that the renowned MV Lady Rose makes its daily excursion to Barkley Sound. The city is also headquarters for the Heritage Network of attractions.

Not to be missed on the highway in to Port Alberni (there's only one!) is a pull-off with a sign saying "Cathedral Grove". This is a protected area of old growth forest featuring trees of enormous girth and height. They are truly awe-inspiring as one walks along the trails through the grove.

Ucluelet (you-CLUE-let) (pop: 1,559) is one of only a few population centres on the wild west coast of Vancouver Island. Its name means "safe landing place" in the language of the Nuu-chah-nulth people who have lived here for at least 4,300 years. In its sheltered inner harbour, seals, sea lions and otters pay little heed to the commercial and charter-fishing vessels that perpetually come and go.

Much of the landscape around Ucluelet consists of temperate rainforest, while some of BC's largest stands of old-growth red cedar are to be found here. The area is also famous for its miles of wide, sandy beaches. Several first class lodges with top rated chefs have opened up in the area and have attracted tourists from round the world.

A popular ski destination, Mount Washington Alpine Ski Resort is the largest skiing and snowboarding facility on Vancouver Island. The resort averages one of the deepest snow bases in BC with no snowmaking machines and stunning 360-degree, alpine-to-ocean views from the summit. This year's snowfall is easily the best of the past four years: from January 2 to 25, 2006 alone, the mountain received a prodigious 4 m (13.25 ft) of snow, operating on a base of 3.2 m (10.5 ft). The powder is exquisite, too, with continuous storm cycles ensuring the light stuff six out of seven days on average during the 2005-6 season.

Mount Washington Alpine Ski Resort is located a 20 minute drive west of the Comox Valley and 1 hour and 15 minutes north of Nanaimo. The Comox Valley and Campbell River airports are serviced daily from Vancouver. There's also a daily bus shuttle from Nanaimo, Parksville and Qualicum.

This has been an all too brief look at Vancouver Island, one of the most scenic areas in all of Canada.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Canada Vacation