Protect the barrier function of your skin!
The selectively permeable skin barrier is the top most layer of
the skin (so called "dead skin layer"), which has a tremendous
role in protection against dehydration and variable
environmental changes. This layer contains cells without nuclei
comprised of keratin filaments sank in a lipid milieu of free
cholesterol, cholesterol ionic (sulfate cholesterol), ceramide,
and other free fatty acids. The role of each of the constituents
of this layer is still an open question.
One thing is certain! Any modification in the skin barrier's
equilibrium may trigger different skin conditions such a
dryness, itchiness or dermatitis.
Preservation of the qualities of the skin barrier became a
necessity these days when we encounter so many pollution sources
around us. In order to maintain a healthy and active skin
barrier you should moisturize your skin on a daily basis. There
are many important qualities that a moisturizer has to achieve
in order to protect the skin barrier.
One of the important qualities of a moisturizer is to bring
moisture and keep it there. For this purpose every moisturizer
has to contain humectants, preferable natural, such as vegetable
glycerine. The glycerine can attract water and trigger the
elasticity of the skin.
Fatty acids on the other hand, have a major role in retaining
the moisture in. However, a high concentration of fatty acids
without any humectant in a skin care formulation increases the
sensitivity of the skin barrier to different chemicals. For
example sodium lauryl sulfate, one of the major ingredients in
synthetic cleansers can easily penetrate the skin barrier in the
above conditions, leading to cell damage.
To strengthen the barrier function some fatty acids are more
important than other. For example linoleic and gamma linoleic
acids, induce the biosynthesis of ceramide , a skin barrier
constituent , which improves radically the barrier function.
Another quality for a well formulated moisturizer is sunscreen
protection. Antioxidants such as vitamin C, Vitamin E or
Coenzyme Q have an important role in UV protection. However for
a photoaging damaged skin these only ingredients are not
sufficient to stop or reverse the aging process. Vitamin A is
also required to enhance the biosynthesis of the new skin cells.
On the other hand too high concentration of vitamin A can induce
wrinkles.
To activate the skin barrier process of regeneration the most
upper layer of the cells has to be removed periodically. The
removal of the cells can be rapidly obtained by peeling
procedure. The stronger the peeling procedure you choose the
longer time is needed for the skin barrier to regenerate. By
using mild peeling procedure the removal of the cells is limited
to some extent to those cells ready to be shed. In this case,
the regeneration is naturally occurred, is not induced or
forced, this keeping the upper skin layer protected.
In conclusion:
Don't rush for a moisturizer, which claims to contain one
extraordinary active ingredient! One or even two active
ingredients are not enough to provide a healthy skin and
protective skin barrier. The active ingredients have to be as
many as they can maintain all the skin needs for hydration,
regeneration, rejuvenation and protection. The potential active
ingredients have to interact with each other in a complete
synergy to provide the maximum strengths and a high quality skin
care product.
Don't rush for an extreme peeling alternative. Look for a less
aggressive, more natural way of improving your skin and
strengthening your skin's barrier function.
After all, your skin has to be prepared not for a moment of
nice pretence it has to remain healthy for your entire life.