How to tips for surfing beginners!
Surfboards and You: Surfboards are made to float on the water.
They have a natural center of gravity. If you were to lay any
surfboard in a swimming pool, it would come to rest the same way
every time. This is what we want to do when you lay on a surf
board. That is to have the board remain in the same relation to
the water as it was without your weight on it, just a bit lower
in the water. A good tip is to find this balance point and lay
on your board then make, a mark right at your chin. This is a
spot is best made with a bit of wax or a magic marker. It is a
reference point that enables you to put your chin on the same
spot every time so the board will react to your weight the same
way every time. If the board's nose digs into the water it is
called pearling and you must move the location of "your chin"
back. To adjust, just slide back an inch from the mark and make
a mental note. Too much weigh in the back and the board will
cork the board. This is a common mistake amongst beginners. You
cannot catch a wave if you are corking your board. Move up an
inch at a time till the board lies in the water naturally. This
will provide you with the maximum hull speed and minimum drag
from the water displacement that you are causing with your
weight. Do not paddle with both arms simultaneously because this
will cause the board to speed up and slow down in the water and
you will not be able to maintain constant hull speed through the
water. Always paddle with the crawl stroke; one arm and then the
other alternatively. This will provide you with a constant speed
so you can catch that wave. Ok, so now we know how to lie on the
board and paddle the board. Now it's time to learn how to sit on
the board. The first time try this you may be quite wobbly. The
key to doing this well is being calm, or trying to be still. The
less movement that you make the easier you will find it is to do
this. All the other skills of surfing will improve as you learn
to be "calm" while surfing. Now it's time to learn how to stand
up. This is something you have been doing all your life. Lie on
your chest, your head up, looking ahead. Put your hands on the
board beside your shoulders palms down like you were going to do
a push up. Push your upper body up while at the same time you
sweep your feet under you, laying them on the stringer, the line
down the middle of the board, so your weight is centered along
the stringer. When you come up, remember to keep low. If you
stand erect you will fall. Assume a position of a sumo wrestler.
Press your feet shoulder width apart and "grip the board in your
feet", opposite of the way you would press your thighs together
on a horse. Have your hands a bit higher than your waist and
just in view of your vision. Always look up! If you look at your
feet, you will fall down. I promise! Practice this for hours.
Have someone watch you and have them critique your performance.
Practice jumping up without making a sound on the floor. Calm
and controlled is the smoothest way to approach this so practice
doing it quietly. If you have a surfboard, lay it on a large bed
or in the sand and do this exercise. This is a way for you to
judge your ability to be controlled.
Safety: Never have your board between yourself and the coming
waves! To avoid collision with others, keep a safe distance, say
fifteen feet or the length of you, your leash and board
combined. Beginners should always wear a leash or leg rope tied
to their surfboard. Every beginner surfboard should also have a
safety nose guard to prevent dangerous impacts with the
surfboard nose. Beginners should always surf with a buddy for
safety, plus it is cool to share your surf experiences with.
Never push your board through the water fin first. The fin or
fins were made to keep the board pointing nose first. Pushing
the board fins first can be quite dangerous because the board
wants to go the other direction. Beginner surfers should
consider wearing a vest, rash guard or tee shirt to avoid the
rubbed rash they will get on their stomach and chest. When you
fall off your board, cover the back of your head with your
hands, with your wrists over your ears and your elbows together.
Stay under water for a moment longer than necessary. There are
companies that make helmets and this is another alternative.
When you come up, try to be facing the oncoming waves and look
for your board's location immediately. Loose boards in the ocean
are very dangerous objects for swimmers.
Surfing etiquette: the first standing surfer that is closest to
the breaking wave has the rite of way on that wave. Anyone
paddling for that wave must quit. There are repercussions to not
following this rule and it can be very dangerous. Most known
surf spots have locals who surf that spot every day and some
believe that they "own the beach". We all know that this is not
the case. Having said that, the stranger, no matter their
ability, should endeavor to show some respect for these social
dinosaurs. The surfer riding the wave has the right of way and
the paddlers who are paddling out must yield. This means that
the paddlers must paddle out of the way whenever possible, even
if it is into the breaking wave or behind the rider. If you are
paddling for a wave and someone is paddling out toward you, make
eye contact with that person and indicate your intentional
direction in reference to them. A nod in the direction you are
going can work.
Conclusion: Every situation is different so practice being nice
in the water. It will make you feel good, I promise. Hooting for
a good wave or encouraging someone is good too. Remember, you
will get what you give.