Is Greece just one culture?
With well over a hundred inhabited islands and a territory that
stretches from the south Aegean to the Balkan countries, Greece
offers enough to fill months of travel. The historic sites span
four millennia, encompassing both the legendary and the not so
famous, where a visit can still seem like a personal discovery.
Beaches are parceled out along a convoluted coastline equal to
France's in length, and islands range from backwaters where the
boat calls twice a week to resorts as cosmopolitan as any in the
Mediterranean.
Modern Greece is the result of extraordinarily diverse
influences. Romans, Arabs, Latin Crusaders, Venetians, Slavs,
Albanians, Turks, Italians, not to mention the Byzantine Empire,
have been and gone since the time of Alexander the Great. All
have left their mark: the Byzantines in countless churches and
monastaries ; the
Venetians in impregnable fortifications in the Peloponnese; and
other Latin powers, such as the Knights of Saint John and the
Genoese, in imposing castles across the northeastern Aegean.
Most obvious is the heritage of four centuries of Ottoman
Turkish rule which, while universally derided, contributed
substantially to Greek music, cuisine, language and way of life.
Significant, and still-existing, minorities - Vlachs, Muslims,
Catholics, Jews, and Gypsies - have also helped to forge the
hard-to-define but resilient Hellenic identity, which has kept
alive the people's sense of themselves throughout their
turbulent history. With no local ruling class or formal
Renaissance period to impose superior models of taste or
patronize the arts, medieval Greek peasants, fishermen and
shepherds created a vigorous and truly popular culture, which
found expression in the songs and dances, costumes, embroidery,
carved furniture and the white Cubist houses of popular
imagination. During the last few decades much of this has
disappeared under the impact of Western consumer values,
relegated to museums at best, but recently the country's
architectural and musical heritage in particular have undergone
a renaissance, with buildings rescued from dereliction and
performers reviving, to varying degrees, half-forgotten musical
traditions.
Of course there are formal cultural activities as well: museums
that shouldn't be missed, magnificent medieval mansions and
castles, as well as the great ancient sites dating from the
Neolithic, Bronze Age, Minoan, Classical, Hellenistic, Roman and
Byzantine eras. Greece hosts some excellent summer festivals
too, bringing international theatre, dance and musical groups to
perform in ancient theatres, as well as castle courtyards and
more contemporary venues in coastal and island resorts.
But the call to cultural duty will never be too overwhelming on
a Greek holiday. The hedonistic pleasures of languor and warmth
- going lightly dressed, swimming in balmy seas at dusk, talking
and drinking under the stars - are just as appealing. And
despite recent improvements to the tourism "product", Greece is
still essentially a land for adaptable sybarites, not for those
who crave orthopedic mattresses, faultless plumbing, Cordon-Bleu
cuisine and attentive service. Except at the growing number of
luxury facilities in new or restored buildings, hotel and
pension rooms can be box-like, campsites offer the minimum of
facilities, and the food at its best is fresh and uncomplicated.
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