The dazzling beauty of the Shwedagon Paya
The Shwedagon Paya is much more than just another temple. It is
the cultural and religious heart of Myamar. Built on a small
hill in central Yangon (Rangoon) the great golden dome rises
almost 100m and dominates the city skyline. Rudyard Kipling was
moved to call it "a golden mystery".
By day, the dome glitters like golden fire. Sunset plays a
melody of shades with the monument that never fails enchant. At
night, the complex is illuminated by thousands of
strategically-placed spotlights. All Burmese are rightly proud
of their national monument, and try to visit the site at least
once in their lives.
Legend has it the main stupa (Buddhist monument in the shape of
a dome) is 2,500 years old and is home to eight hairs of Buddha,
although archaeological evidence suggests it was built by Mon
rulers of the area around 1,000 - 1,400 years ago. Wars,
earthquakes and other calamities have taken their toll on the
Shwedagon and most of the present structure dates back to 1769.
The sacred dome is an enduring symbol of the resilience of
Burmese - or Bamah - culture. After each setback, Shwedagon is
rebuilt and restored to its former glory.
Getting there is easy, as the Shwedagon is just north of central
Yangon and is easily the most popular tourist attraction in the
city. Every taxi and motor rickshaw driver knows the way. The $5
entrance fee includes the use of a lift to the main floor of the
complex, but there's nothing to stop you following the footsteps
of Buddhist worshippers and climbing the steps up Singuuttara
Hill to the summit. You have four covered walkways to choose
from in addition to lifts at the northern and southern entrances.
Visitors are allowed from dawn until early evening. English
speaking monks often offer themselves as tour guides in return
for a $5 donation.
Be advised that all visitors must remove shoes and socks while
in the main complex. Marble flooring is very hot around noon and
slippery after rainfall, but a mat pathway is provided around
the main stupa.
As with all Buddhist monuments, visitors are expected to walk
clockwise around the complex. While the golden stupa is the
central feature of Shwedagon, it is not the only attraction. In
the north-western corner is the 23 tonne Maha Ganda bell which
dates back to the 1770s. After the first Anglo-Burmese War in
1825, the bell was seized by the British who intended to ship it
to their homeland. The bell was
dropped in the Yangon River and the British were unable to raise
it. The Burmese were allowed to try their luck, and they placed
logs and bamboo under the bell until it floated to the surface
and was restored to its rightful place.
Just beside the Maha Ganda pavilion is a small stupa with a
golden spire. Between the eight niches around its base are
figures of animals and birds representing the directions of the
compass and the associated sign and planet for each day of the
week (Wednesday is divided into morning and afternoon.
This theme is also displayed on the main stupa. North is
represented by Friday, the planet Venus and a guinea pig or
mole. North-west is Wednesday afternoon, Yahu and a tuskless
elephant. West is Thursday, Jupiter and a rat. South-west is
Saturday, Saturn and a naga (dragon-like serpent). South is
Wednesday morning, Mercury and a tusked elephant. South-east is
Tuesday, Mars and a lion. East is
Monday, the Moon and a tiger. North-east is Sunday, the Sun and
a garuda (mythical winged beast like a dragon). Worshippers are
supposed to pray at the site which represents the day on which
they were born.
To the North-east is one of the largest bells in the world, King
Tharwaddy's Min bell. Cast in 1841, the Maha Titthaganda
(three-toned bell) weighs 42 tonnes and is housed in an elegant
pavilion with a lacquer ceiling.
The eastern shrine hall is considered by many to be the most
beautiful in the complex and is dedicated to Kakusandha, the
first Buddha. It was renovated in 1869 but almost totally
destroyed by the great fire of 1931 and had to be completely
rebuilt. Nearby is the U Nyo pavilion, which houses a series of
carved wooden panels depicting the life of Gautama Buddha.
In the south-eastern corner is a banyan tree, reputed to have
grown from a branch of the original tree under which Gautama
Buddha gained enlightenment.
There is a small museum of curios beside the southern entrance.
The south-western corner has a prayer pavilion with 28 images
representing the 28 previous incarnations of the Buddha.
By the western entrance is the prayer hall guarded by the
figures of Mai Lamu and the King of the Nats. Legend has it this
pair were the parents of King Ukkalapa who brought the hairs of
the Buddha to Shwedagon.
In all, there are over 50 glittering zedis (stupas) and
pavilions in the Shwedagon complex. The main stupa is the
world's largest building covered with gold. In 1900, the
Shwedagon trustees decided to renovate the main spire, and used
9,272 gold plates measuring one foot square (30.5 cm by 30.5 cm)
for a total of 5,004 ounces of gold. King George V (then Prince
of Wales) and Queen Mary donated four plates upon their state
visit in 1906. A total of 4,350 diamonds were also used in the
construction.
There are four sealed entrances to the main stupa, but no one
knows what is inside. Legend has it flying swords protect the
interior from unwelcome intruders. Others say there are tunnels
leading all the way to Pagan and even Thailand.
Sunrise and sunset are the best times to visit Shwedagon, but
any time you go, a visit is sure to leave memories which last a
lifetime. As English visitor Ralph Fitch wrote in 1586:
"It is called Dogonne, and is of a wonderful bignesse, and all
gilded from the foot to the toppe....it is the fairest place, as
I suppose, that is in the world."
Note: Burmese not changed to Myanmar national to keep the
original context