Travel and Tourism in Sierra Leone is a Hot Topic!
Until a few days ago, if you had asked me to tell you about
Sierra Leone, I would have had to think long and hard to tell
you much about this West African country. I could probably have
explained roughly where the country is located. I may have
mentioned something about the slave trade being connected to
Sierra Leone. I could certainly have told you that they had
experienced a brutal civil war. I might even have admitted that
I wasn't entirely sure whether the war was 100% over. And that's
about it.
Slavery and war. A pretty negative view of what is in fact an
exceptionally positive country. Today, I see Sierra Leone from
an entirely different perspective.
It is difficult to ignore Sierra Leone's history and focus
purely on the present. Once a fertile area inhabited by dozens
of tribes, it was settled by the Portuguese in the 1400's who
built a fort as a trading post for gold, spices, ivory and
slaves. A British protectorate in later years, Sierra Leone had
the dubious honour of becoming home to more than 40,000 freed
slaves who gave Freetown its name. As a protectorate, Sierra
Leone was exploited for its mineral and diamond wealth in the
1900's and Sierra Leonean's fought against the Germans in
Cameroon in the First World War, and alongside the British in
the Second World War. In 1961, Sierra Leone achieved
independence from Britain and governed itself peacefully for 30
years. The peace was not to last and was followed by a decade of
brutal civil war that destroyed the economy, brutalised the
people and left a country that is rich in resources as one of
the poorest in the world.
The conflict was officially declared over in January 2002, and
President Kabbah reelected in May 2002. Since then, the people
of Sierra Leone have been pulling together to repair, renew and
regenerate.
Whilst doing research for a new website looking at travel and
tourism in Sierra Leone, I came into contact with Sierra
Leoneans from all manner of backgrounds living in both Sierra
Leone and elsewhere. Their passion for the country was
infectious: they clearly wanted to get the message across that
Sierra Leone has far more to offer than a sad recent history and
that reconstruction is moving ahead at a rapid pace. And indeed,
proof of reconstruction is everywhere - new roads are being
built, mines are being re-opened, dam projects started before
the war are once again underway, markets are once again thriving
and humming with life. There is also a great deal of confidence
in Sierra Leone's potential as a tourist destination: a Chinese
company has recently invested a reputed US$270 million in the
hotel infrastructure; enterprising companies like Kevin
McPhillips Travel (based in the UK, USA and the Netherlands)
offer exclusive twice weekly flights to Sierra Leone; African
Tour specialists are researching viable package holidays in the
region. The exciting thing about investment in Sierra Leone is
that more is set to follow!
They have a right to be confident. The beaches along Sierra
Leone's golden peninsula are said to be one of the world's best
kept secrets. Secluded, clean and stretching for miles on end,
beach tourism is one of the top items on the government's
tourism promotion agenda. Beaches with very British names like
Kent, Lumley, Sussex and York mix with more African names like
Bureh Town, Tokey and Mammah beach, and
Although many of the forests and much of the wildlife has been
disturbed and in some cases, destroyed, by the war, eco-tourism
is an important focus of Sierra Leoneans and natural treasures
like Outamba-Kilimi National Park, populated by game animals
such as elephants, chimpanzees and pigmy hippos, and Mount
Bintimani, the highest point in West Africa, are just two of the
worthwhile wildlife attractions on offer. Tacugama Chimpanzee
Sanctuary rescues orphaned and captured chimps and has been
described as one of the most successful Sierra Leonean wildlife
endeavours, whilst Tiwai Island is home to over 3000 chimps as
well as other game.
Lakes, rivers and dams are perfect for picnics and relaxing. The
marshlands hide a myriad of colourful birds - indeed, the bird
life has been less affected by the war than the animals, and
everywhere you go, the air is filled with birdsong. Sierra Leone
is a bird-watchers dream! Tiwai Island for one boasts over 135
different bird species!
For culture vultures and those with historical interests, the
remnants of the slave trade make interesting and
though-provoking expeditions. Bunce Island, a slave trading
fortress, is a brief boat trip up the river; Freetown is itself
a monument to freed slaves and its Cotton Tree, which stands in
the heart of what is thought to be an old slave market, is now
an impressive national symbol. Graves, monuments and forts are
all that remain of British and Portuguese power in Sierra Leone:
each has a tale to tell. There are over 16 different ethnic
groups in the country, including the Krio, descendents of freed
slaves who speak an English-based Creole called Krio, and
visiting villages and chatting to people in markets and in the
streets is rewarding for all parties!
Freetown is probably the most developed of the cities, offering
a level of safety that is difficult to match even in Western
countries. Hotels, restaurants and nightspots are sprouting like
mushrooms, and eating out in Sierra Leone promises a range of
traditional and international treats, and seafood that is beyond
belief!
One has to wonder what attraction will tip the scales in making
Sierra Leone the popular destination that it once was before the
civil war. Based on my experiences with Sierra Leoneans in
recent weeks, I feel that it will be the people who make the
difference. Without exception, every Sierra Leonean that I have
met or worked with has been proud of their country, proud of its
progress and excited about the future. They are unfailingly
welcoming, greeting aid-workers and travellers alike with smiles
that you can only find in Africa, with an optimism - no,
positivity - that other countries would do well to emulate.
For travellers in search of a "diamond in the rough", Sierra
Leone offers a holiday like no other - my only advice to you is
to visit sooner rather than later, to avoid what is sure to be a
stampede once holiday-makers and tour operators latch on to this
gem of a destination.