Cappadocia, Turkey - Land Of Wonders
Combined forces of mankind and nature have created three wonders
of Cappadocia- its "fairy chimneys" (coneshaped pillars of tuff
capped with basalt) in the unique valleys that look like another
planet, ancient underground cities and 1500-year old rock cut
Christian churches. All of it is concentrated in the area of
approximately 100x100 km in the central part of Turkey. Humans
first set foot in the region about 10,000 years ago. Then, from
3,500 to 1,200 BC Cappadocia was a part of a powerful Hittite
state. Phrygians took over the administration in the 8th century
BC. Five hundred years later they were replaced by Persians.
Alexander the Great occupied the territory in 333 BC.
Cappadocia's past history includes being a Roman state, a part
of the Byzantine Empire, a place where many early Christian
saints including St.Paul found a shelter, where they lived and
taught. Finally, Cappadocia has become a noticable region of
modern Turkey with predominant importance of agriculture and
tourism.
WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE: Fairy Chimneys were created as a result
of wind and water erosion when small harder pieces of rock
remained on top of larger and softer rock columns. This
out-of-this-world landscape impressed George Lucas so much that
his original plan was to shoot some Star Wars' episodes in this
area. Located in a spectacular valley between towns of Nevseshir
and Urgup there are very different, interesting fairy chimneys.
UNESCO declared the area a World Heritage Site. Some of the
fairy chimneys have been inhabited for many years, with rooms,
windows and staircases being laboriously curved inside creating
up to 5-storey structures inside. Today some of these are also
providing services to tourism as pensions.
The largest of 36 underground cities in the area is at
Derinkuyu. It is at a distance of 29 km from Nevsehir, the
provincial center of 7,000 people. Derinkuyu underground city is
located under a hill, was found by chance and opened to the
public in 1965. It covers a 4 square km area and was calculated
as able to shelter 2,000 households on 7 floors beneath the
surface, reaching a depth of 70 to 85 meters. Archeologists tend
to believe that the Hittites were the starters of the
underground communities which in the 6th and 7th were expanded
by early Christians into a very extensive complexes with air
shafts, kitchens, living quarters, churches, water wells, horse
stables and wine cellars. These elaborate subterranean systems
were used by the people who had accepted Christianity against
their enemies both as a shelter and as a safe place to carry out
their worship. Next largest underground city is at Kaymakly, 20
km from Nevsehir. Despite of the fact that only four underground
levels have been excavated, there are speculations that there
can be as many as 11 in total. There is also a tunnel that
connects the underground cities of Kaymakli and Derinkuyu (9 km
long!) that has a width of of over 2 meters, but unfortunatley
it is not opened to the public as parts of the tunnel have
collapsed.
Among other significant underground communities in the region we
should mention the underground monastery of Ozkonak and the
Tatlarin underground city with existing Christian frescoes. Rock
cut Christian churches. It is estimated that over 400 Christian
churches, chapels and monasteries were built in Cappadocia
during the Byzantine period until the 13th century. Most of them
were hollowed out in fairy chimneys, hills and in underground
caves. The Tokali church is the largest one in the region, it
was built in the beginning of the 10th century.
Decorated with a cycle containing the life of Jesus, it is
located right in the town of Goreme. The Karanlik church, also
located in Goreme is among best preserved in Cappadocia with
lively paintings depicting the consecration of Jesus, the Last
Supper, the Crucifixion and the apostles. The Eskigumus rock cut
monastery (close to the town of Nigde) is the only one where you
can see a frescoe with smiling Virgin Mary. Recent discovery of
the monastery in 1963 allowed it to escape vandalism to which
many of the Cappadocian churches and monasteries were subjected.
Well-preserved wall paintings decorate the spacious main church
are known to be one of the best examples of the Byzantine art in
all of Cappadocia.
Other attractions in the area include but not limited to: -
museums in Aksaray, Nevsehir, Goreme, Nigde, Kayseri; - fortress
of Ortahisar, the spectacular Devrent Valley; - Seljuk history
relics such as Karatay Madrasah, many mosques and caravansaries
in Konya; - hot springs in Nar-Golu and Guzelyurt where also one
of the oldest existing churches in the area- Kizil Kilise (Red
Church) is located, a 6th century artifact; - mountain climbing
and mountain skiing at the Erciyes Dagi mountain (3916m above
sea level); - hot air ballooning.
WHEN TO GO: Cappadocia has a steppe climate, there is a great
temperature difference between day and night. The average
temperature is 23 deg.C (73 F) in summer and -2 deg.C (28 F) in
winter. It is cooler and drier than in the popular tourist areas
of the Mediterranean and the Aegean coasts. April to middle of
June and September-October are the best months to visit.
GETTING THERE: Ankara, the Turkey's capital city is only 350km
away. You will find all necessary local contact phone numbers,
price quotes and dining recommendations by following these
links: Goreme - Nevsehir. Tours to Cappadocia are offered by
almost all travel agencies in Turkey, although they are all too
short allowing you just enough time for brief sightseeing. Tour
guides tend to spend too much of your time at local pottery and
carpet shops. We recommend you to rent a car in Ankara (usually
$ 75-100 USD/day, check rental prices ) and drive to Cappadocia
on your own, or put together a little group and hire a minivan
together with a local driver/travel guide (a car and driver
would cost you $85- 135 USD/day).
TRAVEL TIPS: Local travel books, information booklets are
available on the spot in Cappadocia's towns. If travelling on
your own, a detailed road map would definitely be a must to buy
before leaving home. Modest clothes are suggested for women. The
rural Turkey's culture is conservative and immodest clothing
(short skirts, shorts, tight clothing) can invite unwanted
attention. Do not forget a sun hat, sun protecting lotion,
comfortable shoes. Plan ahead to spend at least two full days in
the area.