ANY BREAK IS A GOOD BREAK
There is something about that extra day tacked onto a weekend,
be it a Monday or a Friday, which turns a getaway into a mini
vacation. Of course three day weekends are a state of mind. One
"three day weekend" trip my boyfriend John and I took to Vegas
started on Memorial Day Monday and ended on a Wednesday. We tend
to take breaks just before or just after big holidays - you get
better rates, better service and a lot fewer crowds. That trip
we skipped our usual easy bargain booking for midweek Luxor
(always clean, excellent bathrooms) and made a blind Hotwire bid
on a Vegas Strip 5 star hotel and ended up in the mind-boggling
Venetian for an unheard of price - under $100 a night including
service fees. Lots of California people fly to Vegas, Tahoe or
San Francisco, but we seem to end up driving to our breaks,
partly because the dog kennel we use is right off the 10 freeway
and often on the way, partly because getting on the road means
the vacation has already started. When you add up getting to the
airport early, parking, waiting to board, being inspected, then
collecting baggage at the other end, you are practically at the
same number of travel hours. And on the plane, we don't get to
eat one of John's patented toasted sandwiches. Somehow, the way
he makes the sandwich means I actually eat mayonnaise, a
substance I usually detest. Driving against the traffic
(everyone else was heading back from the weekend away and oh
what a stream of headlights we saw crawling along) we were
hypnotized by the flashing lights of an outlet mall/casino combo
at the border - Stateline, Nevada - and stopped in. Great
bargains for men's wear, not so great for women's wear - but we
didn't do a thorough search.
On that Vegas trip, we dragged our battered garment bag, with a
freshly broken strap, across the lush marble-floored lobby,
looking like refugees. We entered our suite-like room - with its
canopy bed, step down tv lounge and huge marble bathroom (two
sinks, a shower and a huge tub), pulled out the nice champagne
we'd brought along in our cooler, pulled out our travel
champagne glasses (if they break we don't care) and put on the
plush robes the Venetian provides. A cable movie and champagne
shook the dust off the road trip. The next couple of days in
Vegas sometimes means the spa for me, for sure the sports bar
for John, and our search for the stranger slot machines to play.
The "Ripley's Believe It Or Not" slots actually reward you for
answering trivia questions. Vegas is not really about thinking,
but the times we've played the game we've gotten a few
interested onlookers impressed with our ability to pull facts
out of our brains. We toyed with the idea of hanging around the
machines having a cocktail and helping other players answer
their bonus questions but decided against it. Along the strip,
the Barbary Coast has maintained its original kitsch, sandwiched
between lush hotels who doubtless are sporadically trying to buy
them out. The tables there are friendly and attract a mixed
crowd of fairly low stakes players. Like, a lot of hotels,
dealers display where they are from on their name tag. A tall,
blond Czechoslovakian dealer at the Barbary Coast took John's
blackjack stake away with breathless speed and efficiency. Was
she paid by how many cards she dealt? She was so fast that the
dealer at the next table actually seemed mad at her for ruining
everyone's fun. His attitude was "This is the Barbary Coast, we
don't do that here". Good thing the sports book paid off for
John phenomenally.
If you're into food, Vegas can be frustrating. Bargain buffets
notwithstanding, to-order food is often pricey and mediocre. You
can always count on chains for consistency (Vegas has branches
of California Pizza Kitchen, Wolfgang Puck's, Chin Chin, and
tons more), but part of a vacation is to try something new. We
found two gems last visit. The two new places were both at
venerable Ceasers, a survivor from the Rat Pack era which keeps
re-inventing itself and staying near the top of the competitive
heap on the Strip. At the Palm restaurant (also in NY and L.A.)
there is a businessman's lunch for $15.95 - choice of soup or
salad, choice of fish or filet mignon (!), and coffee. Wines by
the glass are pricey but excellent. One of Caeser's food courts
features such offerings as good southern bbq, roasted turkey
sandwiches, and above average pastries.
As for dinner, we can't resist our old standby - The Four
Seasons' Verandah restaurant. Their three course dinner special
for around $30 is a great deal - cooked by a chef (not a kitchen
worker), and always with a carefully designed menu. One night we
learned there was most definitely a chef on hand as the man
himself - beefy and affable - came out of the kitchen to talk
when we had a question about how he made such perfect fish. I
still use his halibut recipe - hot pan on the stove top, almost
finish the fish, then transfer it to a cold un-oiled pan in a
hot oven - but I digress. Even during the very hot summer, night
time outdoor dining at the Four Seasons is quite pleasant, as
you can sit by the pool. It's hard to come by quiet in Vegas,
but here you get it - there is no gambling in the Four Seasons.
If you want to gamble after dinner at the Verandah, the hotel is
joined to Mandalay Bay by an air conditioned lobby.
We left town the next day, stopping at Ceasers , our new casual
dining spot, for good coffee for the road - and contemplated a
last attempt at the Ripley's slots. We decided to skip it and
call it even when we learned the valet parking outside the
coffee shop was free. We got on Interstate 15 and joined the
weekday throng of truckers headed into California. Traffic was
light 'cuz thanks to driving an off time. We cruise to
Interstate 10 and can't be at the kennel soon enough for the
dogs. I am sure the dogs know when we are getting close but I
always call the kennel keeper to warn her. Humans need advance
notice for what dogs already know. The sound of an approaching
car sets off every dog in the kennel but the barking settles
down once the fellas see us and know they are hopping in the
convertible and heading home. Bert the shepherd sits in the
middle facing forward to make sure we are following the right
route. The other two mutts, Buster and Louie, lounge in the
back, hanging their heads out the window, the kennel already
forgotten. We never make the trip home without a few kids waving
and pointing at the funny people with three dogs.
At least picking them up involves a lot less guilt than dropping
them off, but sorry boys - there will always be another three
day weekend ahead.