Screwcaps For Wine - Is It Bye-Bye To The Romance?
Maybe you've noticed screwcaps on more of the higher priced
wines lately. The trend is continuing to grow and so is the
debate of whether a screwcap or cork is better for wine. The
industry has basically "agreed to disagree" as to whether wine
bottled with a screwcap or a cork tastes better, ages better and
has less of a tendency to spoil.
As more wineries consider using screwcaps instead of the
traditional cork, one has to wonder how the public at large will
accept the change in tradition. When the occasional wine drinker
sees a $20 bottle of wine with a screwcap, will he move to the
next bottle on the shelf because he conjuring thoughts in his
mind of his college years and Boones Farm Apple Wine?
Corks hold tradition and romance for a bottle of wine. It's hard
to imagine dining at a fine eating establishment and ordering a
bottle of wine without expecting the waiter pull out his
corkscrew. Watching him carefully cut the foil, masterfully
twist the screw into the cork, and giving it a pull with a
final, ever so slight, pop, is part of what we pay for when we
order a bottle of wine. It's shear romance; it's a moment we
hold in our memory of a nice dining experience.
Why would a winery want to change an age-old tradition that
holds so much charm? Well, apparently the occurrence of wines
being spoiled because of the cork is a fairly large problem. One
report from the International Wine Challenge, the world's
largest wine competition, states that nearly one in 20 bottles,
or 4.9% of the 11,033 bottles opened at that competition had
spoiled or the flavor had been flattened because of the cork.
How is the cork responsible for the ruin of so much wine? Cork
is a tree bark and when wine corks are manufactured, chlorine
bleach is used for cleaning and brightening the color. When the
bleach comes in contact with the natural molds that are present
in the cork, a reaction occurs and a chemical called
trichloroanisole (TCA) is produced. If this chemical comes in
contact with the wine, it will cause it to taste like damp
cardboard. When this happens the wine is then referred to as
being "corked", and it is undrinkable.
Screwcaps have proven themselves to be a better alternative to
cork. First developed in Australia, the brand name for screwcaps
used for wine is Stelvin, so you will often hear them referred
to as such. These caps are not the same as those used for food
and drink; these caps are specially designed to protect fine
wines from tainting for a period of time and to allow for aging.
Basically the part of the cap that actually contacts the wine is
made from a thin coating of Teflon film over pure tin, this
gives the cap the capability to stay stable and flavor-neutral
for a very long time.
There are some screwcap critics that say the Stelvin caps don't
allow for proper "breathing" so the wine can age, however, this
is a myth. If a cork is perfect and works the way it is supposed
to work, it will not allow air into the bottle. Actually, oxygen
is potentially harmful to the wine and very unnecessary for the
aging process. To quote a leading Bordeaux authority Professor
Pascal Rib