Eating History - Leeks
By Paul Rinehart
"Your majesty says very true: if your majesties is remembered of
it, the Welshmen did good service in a garden where leeks did
grow, wearing leeks in their Monmouth caps; which, your majesty
know, to this hour is an honourable badge of the service; and I
do believe your majesty takes no scorn to wear the leek upon
Saint Tavy's day." (Henry V Act IV, Scene 7)
I was given an assignment once, back in culinary school. I had
to write a report on leeks. "What the heck am I going to say
about leeks?" I said to myself, "It's white and green and is a
member of the lily family!" (As soon as I calmed down, I began
my search. This was before the World Wide Web was more like an
island, so searching for information was out. It was off to the
library.) The true origins of this vegetable are unknown. It is
estimated that the leek has been cultivated since around 3,000
BC.
Its introduction to the British Isles would elevate this simple
garden-variety plant to a higher status. The Phoenicians are
said to have been the first to bring leeks to Britain when they
decided to step into the tin trade. Leeks were not just for
eating, though. It is said that in about 640 AD, Saxons were
fighting with the Welsh. King Cadwallader told his Welsh
soldiers to wear leeks as a badge to distinguish themselves from
their blood-thirsty opponents. To this day, the Welsh still wear
a leek or a representation of one in their hats. When in war,
leeks were thought to have aided in victory. Long before the
reign of King Cadwallader, it is said that the Emperor Nero ate
leeks. According to Pliny's "Historia Naturalis", Nero ate them
prepared in oil, believing it would aid in maintaining the
clarity of his voice.
The leek wasn't always held in such high regard. The French
called it the "Asparagus of the Poor" until one of France's own,
Chef Louis Diat, created a soon to be internationally popular
soup. Vichyssoise is a soup made of leeks and potatoes that is
served cold. I'm not to partial to this cold soup and prefer a
Potage Parisien. Here's a recipe:
Potage Parisien (Leek and potato soup)
1 lbs. leek, white part only. For a little color you can use a
bit of the softer green parts just above the white. A healthy
pat of butter Enough chicken stock to cover the ingredients.
About a cup or so will do. 2 large baking potatoes, peeled and
diced Bouquet Garni (Herb satchel) Optional: Heavy
Cream Salt and Pepper
Clean the leeks. Make sure you remove the sand from between the
layers. Slice the leek.
Melt your butter in a saut